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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond 12/99
Page Views: 2,521 total, 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description

Awkward moves lead up to a few crimpy moves to the right. For shorter folks a big move right to a big hold is the crux. After gaining this hold, it's like 5.9 to the top, steep but with big holds.

Fun moves on nice rock.

Check out this video of the climb:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lj4W4rdUGLE

Location

From the central, Main Cliff area, walk down and left along the bottom section of the cliff. This section is the steep wall on your right as you look down the sketchy scramble with the fixed rope in it.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 ring bolt anchor.
S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
No, not me. There is an undercling chip? Huh. Aug 29, 2013
J Meagher
  5.11c
J Meagher  
  5.11c
Does anybody use the tiny undercling chip as an intermediate when going out right to the first big flake? Aug 29, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
A fun short bouldery route. That drop-knee is deeeeep, it feels like spring-loading your leg. Jun 6, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Worked on this with a friend this past Saturday. He led the first half, and I led the second. This will be my new project! Sep 17, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Lots of fun climbing all jammed into about 20 feet. A variety of techniques, too.

It is possible to skip a large part of the start by climbing up the ramp on the right into the corner below the right-facing jug flake, then going straight for the jug! Probably less fun, but a nice variation. Probably good to stick clip 2nd bolt first. Feb 16, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
Thanks James and Lee def make more they are always a cool thing to look at Jun 13, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
glad you like the video matt, i plan to make and post more of them... Jun 13, 2009
James Otey
NH
 
James Otey   NH
 
Ali Babbler, 5.11c Jun 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
Cool video lee makes me wanna get on this route

anyone know the name of the route to the left of this route? Jun 13, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just posted a video of the route... check it out:
youtube.com/watch?v=lj4W4rd… Jun 9, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
The mantle move on this is pretty awesome. Sep 2, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i climbed this route again today and found it to be more fun than last time... an interesting and fun one for sure... love the jugs at the end... Jan 29, 2008