Type: Sport
FA: Bradley White, 1985
Page Views: 7,905 total · 47/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Know Ethics climbs the tight inside corner to the right of Polly Purebred. Many a climber has lowered off only to say, "That was the hardest 5.10 I have ever done."

Though desperate, the climb is well protected with bolts. Climb up easy schist until below the orange corner. A hard pull deposits you into the corner at which point it might be helpful to think, "palms." And maybe "stems." Continue up the corner until it is possible to move left. You probably want to get out of the corner at this point anyway.

A hard move then leads back right, across the top of the corner, back into the gray schist. Easier moves give way to the anchor that, unlike almost every route on the wall, does not have quick clips. (edit - Does now)

Protection

8 bolts and a pin or two. The chains must be threaded before lowering. How uncivilized.

Photos