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Know Ethics

5.11a, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 211 votes
FA: Bradley White, 1985
New Hampshire > Rumney > Main Cliff

Description

Know Ethics climbs the tight inside corner to the right of Polly Purebred. Many a climber has lowered off only to say, "That was the hardest 5.10 I have ever done."

Though desperate, the climb is well protected with bolts. Climb up easy schist until below the orange corner. A hard pull deposits you into the corner at which point it might be helpful to think, "palms." And maybe "stems." Continue up the corner until it is possible to move left. You probably want to get out of the corner at this point anyway.

A hard move then leads back right, across the top of the corner, back into the gray schist. Easier moves give way to the anchor that, unlike almost every route on the wall, does not have quick clips. (edit - Does now)

Protection

8 bolts and a pin or two. The chains must be threaded before lowering. How uncivilized.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

kevin getting through the crux...
[Hide Photo] kevin getting through the crux...
A historic piton and some oozing algae - a common sight right before entering the corner (and easily avoidable).
[Hide Photo] A historic piton and some oozing algae - a common sight right before entering the corner (and easily avoidable).
kevin getting it done in the cold!
[Hide Photo] kevin getting it done in the cold!
pretty day on Know Ethics
[Hide Photo] pretty day on Know Ethics
otey poised to make the move left... trust that foot...
[Hide Photo] otey poised to make the move left... trust that foot...
james otey in the classically awkward corner of Know Ethics...
[Hide Photo] james otey in the classically awkward corner of Know Ethics...
this bolt was just barely sticking out enough to make use of it... i love winter sport climbing...
[Hide Photo] this bolt was just barely sticking out enough to make use of it... i love winter sport climbing...
Escaping the corner and on to easier ground
[Hide Photo] Escaping the corner and on to easier ground
Zach, doing it.
[Hide Photo] Zach, doing it.
Believe it or not this is key beta.
[Hide Photo] Believe it or not this is key beta.
Historic anchor bolt
[Hide Photo] Historic anchor bolt
Unknown climber in the crux.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber in the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine

  5.10d
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
[Hide Comment] this thing always feels hard every time i do it... Jan 29, 2008
David Aguasca!
New York
 
[Hide Comment] this route is pretty rad...but i dunno about it being the hardest 5.10 i've ever climb. the dihedral is tons of fun! Sep 29, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
[Hide Comment] jeff on know ethics...

youtube.com/watch?v=L3R2wPp… Jun 29, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
[Hide Comment] there have been 2 fat glue in bolts added to the beginning of the route... anyone that climbs here much in the winter should be happy that the first one is left of where the ice pillar forms... no more running it out or bashing through ice to get to the first bolt :)

the second bolt protects the move to get up in to the corner where you are on a loose hold (that can only last so long) and had only a funky pin for pro in the past...

Thanks goes to the phantom that comes in the night bringing us new bolts to keep our climbing safe and fun!!! Sep 15, 2010
[Hide Comment] Hear, hear, for the glue-in phantom. Take a bow.
I feel very insecure on this route (maybe due to the old pro, but I doubt it!). I will climb Centerpiece instead and fight the pump any day of the week! Sep 15, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] The extension is way betterrr... do itt. Nov 3, 2010
SmithBro
North Wilmot, New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] I will take my bow,although I did it for selfish resons. This is a super challenging barefoot climb,and I like to stay on the dry rock in winter. I also put an eye bolt below the lip on the extention, to make it easy to clip. Mar 6, 2011
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Smithy, for the glue-in bolts, and, OK, you got me convinced; I will get on this climb this season and try out the extension. Mar 12, 2011
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] "Tom Armstrong did the belaying. I initially did a pendulum right onto the bulge and traversed left and up to the belay of Iron Man. Tom followed and in cleaning the route had to move left instead of the pendulum I had done, consequently he did the first free climbing of the route as a second. I returned with Tom Bowker and did the first free ascent with him. Shortly after that the route was bolted above the crux. I guess my nested pitons in the corner spooked other climbers. Hint, the climb can be downgraded by going completely around the outside corner onto bigger footholds before the final crux. The 'Extension' was done almost immediately by me."

Comment by bradley white on July 21st, 2009 8:43 am Jul 20, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] WOW. This route is awesome.. Apr 23, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Just want to add that there are, in fact, quick clips now even though the description says otherwise. Awesome climb, one of my favorites! Sep 4, 2013
[Hide Comment] I just climbed it and it has quick clips on it now. Oct 21, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] An ULTRA-classic Rumney route in the mid-range category if you like techy, balancey climbing. This one's the opposite of a jug-haul, and it's a ton of fun. Be sure to get the no-hands rest when you're stemming in the notch before you move out left to the little arete. You can completely de-pump. Aug 3, 2014
john strand
southern colo
[Hide Comment] Now that this route has been climbed by an old, red headed climber..I propose an immediate down grade to 5.8

Your welcome, Nick Sep 15, 2014
bradley white
Bend
 
[Hide Comment] That red head knows my secret left of the crux is way easier. Jul 8, 2015
[Hide Comment] wild, fun, varied climbing. Must do at main cliff. Dec 3, 2017