Whitney Gilman Ridge
Avg: 3.7 from 366 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bradley Gilman and Hassler Whitney, 1929|
|Page Views:||73,296 total, 542/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Oct 12, 2006|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionWhitney Gilman climbs the prominent ridge on the left side of Cannon. Interesting climbing, great belay ledges and incredible exposure make this climb a classic one. Edging up the well defined arete is an experience unique to New Hampshire climbing. There is no 5.7 more exposed than the WG.
The approach is long. Expect about one hour of hiking. Walk down along the bike trail until you reach a well marked trail (photo) heading into the woods. Follow this trail uphill (photo) and through the interminable talus field to the base of the climb.
The climb starts after a short scramble up and left from the base of the ridge.
Pitch 1: Climb a right facing corner until it is possible to move upwards on flakes and a wide crack. This is traditionally rated 5.4, but feels a bit harder, especially at the bottom. Most agree it's 5.6ish.
Pitch 2: Continue up near the right corner. A step down and right (5.7) is required to gain the prominent crack. Belay on the most convenient belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Climb the obvious hand crack in the steep wall. This crack is rated 5.8. There is an easier variation to the left, but there may have been rockfall on this part of the pitch. [Note: There has, but the climb is still there at 5.6-5.7. See description by "SP Boston" in COMMENTS, June 2014.] Continue up the defined ridge. The exposure here is intense, as the malicious Black Dike looms to the right. Pass the famous pipe that was pounded into the crack on the second ascent, (What were they thinking?) and belay on an exposed, slanting perch. 5.7.
Pitch 4: Move up a steep wall, and then trend left on a slab to a comfortable belay ledge. 5.6.
Pitch 5: Many variations are possible on the last pitch. Staying right on the corner presents a better 5.8/9 alternative to the 5.7 groove to the left. Top out at a picturesque overlook.
Descent: Walk straight up into the woods on a well worn trail. The trail heads left and downhill. After a considerable amount of walking, you will reach the bike path. The trail does not go back to the base, so do not leave gear there.