Elevation: 2,693 ft
GPS: 44.158, -71.685 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,874 total · 884/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 23, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

Routes in the general area of Moby Grape, roughly defined as routes to the right of the Big Wall and left of Weissner dike. Long, clean, though often loose routes about 800' high. Vertigo, Moby Grape and more.

Getting There

Walk the paved trail to the big boulder on the right with sign across the trial. Follow trail around boulder through trees and up the talus to the routes.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: 4. Moby Grape Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Moby Grape Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 349
● Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
● Reppys Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
● Tip Trip (Formally 11a)
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
● Union Jack
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
● Moonshadow
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
 91
● Vertigo
Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 3
● Peppy's Face
Sport, Alpine
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
● The White Iceberg
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Moby Grape
 349
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
● Reppys Crack
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
● Tip Trip (Formally 11a)
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
● Union Jack
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Moonshadow
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
● Vertigo
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
● Peppy's Face
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Sport, Alpine
● The White Iceberg
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
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FA of Vertigo 1971 . Note no protection on the half moon crack.
FA of Vertigo 1971 . Note no protection on the…
 12

6 Comments

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bradley white
Bend
bradley white   Bend
Dark Hallow should be at the bottom of this list. May 27, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
If anybody is able to help number the routes in this section left to right, I can fix the ordering. Oct 4, 2012
Michael Z.
Michael Z.  
From what I know. Left to Right


1.Peppy's Face
2.Moby Grape
3.Psyche Dyke
4.Tip Trip
5.Union Jack
6.Manhedral
7.Vertigo
8.Moonshadow
9.The White Iceberg
10.And “Dark Hallow should be at the bottom of this list.” Oct 4, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks again! Oct 4, 2012
ZABain
ZABain  
While the trail at the big boulder will get you to the cliff and Moby Gape area, a much better approach trail is just 25 yards past the boulder. Look for a bike turn-off area on the right; the trail starts at about the center of the turnoff. Aug 10, 2015
Van Go
Van Go  
Can anyone confirm or deny that the waypoint for moby grape area is off? I noticed a while back after hiking up there that it seemed whoever took down the waypoints for all the areas might have shifted them all over climber's right by accident. WhitneyG was for instance labeling what I thought was moby grape. Someone seems to have fixed the coordinates for WhitneyG but this one still looks off. I think it should be closer to 44.1583787, -71.6845606. Thoughts? Also I found a pretty nice mountaineering glove on that hike. PM with the description of what and which glove if you lost one and I'll see if I can get it back to you. Apr 19, 2018