The White Iceberg
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area
|Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R|
|Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R|
|White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bradley White & Jim Shimberg 9/1988 but FFA Jim Shimberg 1st pitch and FA of climb soloed in 1988. FFA Scott Stevens 1989?|
|Page Views:||3,300 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Jun 23, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionI started to set the climb up for climbing by myself by doing the beginning roped soloed because near to the start of it there was necessity to placing 2 bolts to get past a practically too smooth to climb ramp. I invited Anders Kressy to climb it with me. I led the first pitch using the bolts for aid (A-0) and then went through the easy arch via a horizontal finger crack. Over the arch a little higher up was the exit rappel station to Vertigo where I belayed Anders up too. We rappelled.
Shortly after that I told Jim Shimberg about the climb and invited him to bolt the second pitch if he wanted to? Jim went for it rope solo I believe and did a magnificent bolting of the climb above Vertigos rappel station for 2 pitches. Bravo Jim.
Soon after that Jim had put the bolts in he invited me too do the climb with him. I led it all at 5-11d(A-0). The next summer it was free climbed by Scott Stevenson at (5-12) past the first pitch bolts. The third pitch is (5-8) ramps bolted and cracks trad gear to the base of Moon Shadow.
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