Elevation: 4,100 ft
GPS: 44.159, -71.685 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 420,700 total · 3,975/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The climbs are long, the weather is bad, and the rock is exfoliating. Every climber who heads up to do a route on Cannon understands that the undertaking is a considerable one.

This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's many heavily eroded vertical gullies.

Rockfall is a common occurrence on the cliff. The Old Man, a natural outline of a face in the rock and New Hampshire's famous state symbol, fell off the cliff a few years back. An entire pitch, the Whaleback Crack, parted from the face in the 1990's and created a swath of fresh talus at the base.
This is the rough estimate of the areas i split cannon in to...

Located in Franconia Notch, the cliff faces east and many a climber has been caught unawares by fast-moving storms coming from the west. Plus, a long talus approach leads to the base and can be heinous if the talus is wet or snow covered.

Do not let the above description dissuade you. Cannon offers the chance for the experienced climber to find alpine serenity on a remote, unforgiving, and challenging wall.

Getting There

All roads lead to Interstate 93 and I-93 runs through Franconia Notch. The big cliff is on the west side of the road. You can't possibly miss it.

The parking area is on the north end of the cliff. It is only possible to access the lot from the southbound side of 93. If you are coming from the south, head past the lot and get off on the next exit (the Tramway exit). From here, reverse directions and head south into the lot.

Winter climbs

For descriptions of Cannon's excellent winter climbs, including the super-classic Black Dike, see Cannon Ice Climbs.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cannon Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 94
Lakeview
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 485
Whitney Gilman Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Duet
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Lightning Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 413
Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
Slow and Easy
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Consolation Prize
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 126
Reppys Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Union Jack
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
 99
Vertigo
Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 41
Raven Crack
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Sticky Fingers
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 73
VMC Direct Direct
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 58
Duet Direct
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 16
Labyrinth Wall Direct
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lakeview 5. Slabs
 94
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Whitney Gilman Ridge 1. Whitney-Gilman Area
 485
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Duet 2. Duet Area etc
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Lightning Crack 2. Duet Area etc
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Moby Grape 4. Moby Grape Area
 413
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Slow and Easy 2. Duet Area etc
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Consolation Prize 5. Slabs
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Reppys Crack 4. Moby Grape Area
 126
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Union Jack 4. Moby Grape Area
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Vertigo 4. Moby Grape Area
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
Raven Crack 2. Duet Area etc
 41
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Sticky Fingers 2. Duet Area etc
 53
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
VMC Direct Direct 3. Big Wall
 73
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Duet Direct 2. Duet Area etc
 58
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Labyrinth Wall Direct 3. Big Wall
 16
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Cannon Cliff »

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