Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
Routes in 5. Slabs
|Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13|
|Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Howard Peterson & Dave Tibbetts, July 1977. Second pitch added by Jeff Burns & Steve Schneider.|
|Page Views:||2,794 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||David Aguasca! on Jun 17, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe sustained, tenuous friction climbing on this one will leave your noggin tired, if nothing else. The rock is superb, and the crux is well-protected. I put the R rating for the runout up top, where the rock quality is a bit poorer and the protection scarce, but the climbing is easier, maybe 5.9 or so.
Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection.
Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.
LocationLocate the buttress in the middle of the slabs on the right (north) end of Cannon. Smack in the middle is a line of three bolts on gorgeous, clean (read: blank), white granite.
To rap, use the rap station in the alcove. A single 60m rope will get you to the ground.