Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Howard Peterson & Dave Tibbetts, July 1977. Second pitch added by Jeff Burns & Steve Schneider.|
|Page Views:||2,810 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||David Aguasca! on Jun 17, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionThe sustained, tenuous friction climbing on this one will leave your noggin tired, if nothing else. The rock is superb, and the crux is well-protected. I put the R rating for the runout up top, where the rock quality is a bit poorer and the protection scarce, but the climbing is easier, maybe 5.9 or so.
Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection.
Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.
LocationLocate the buttress in the middle of the slabs on the right (north) end of Cannon. Smack in the middle is a line of three bolts on gorgeous, clean (read: blank), white granite.
To rap, use the rap station in the alcove. A single 60m rope will get you to the ground.