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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Howard Peterson & Dave Tibbetts, July 1977. Second pitch added by Jeff Burns & Steve Schneider.
Page Views: 2,794 total, 27/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The sustained, tenuous friction climbing on this one will leave your noggin tired, if nothing else. The rock is superb, and the crux is well-protected. I put the R rating for the runout up top, where the rock quality is a bit poorer and the protection scarce, but the climbing is easier, maybe 5.9 or so.

Hard friction takes you straight off the ground to the first bolt, which you'll pass diagonalling right to the sloping horizontal ramp. Clip the next bolt, traverse right to the end of the ramp, and figure out how to use the few holds you have to make it straight up to a stance at the third bolt, just up and left. From there you can traverse left to the right leaning flake system which offers a bit of protection.

Continue up and left, pretty far above the last piece of pro you have...once you've mantled onto the more secure ground of the left facing flake, you can scamper up to an alcove where you can set up a belay with a bolt and two horns.

Location

Locate the buttress in the middle of the slabs on the right (north) end of Cannon. Smack in the middle is a line of three bolts on gorgeous, clean (read: blank), white granite.

To rap, use the rap station in the alcove. A single 60m rope will get you to the ground.

Protection

3 quickdraws, and a small selection of cams, finger to small hand size. You won't use most of it, but it's good to have, for variety's sake. A couple 4ft slings are helpful for the belay.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Anybody replace the old bolts yet? I remember doing this with Whitey decades ago. I think we did both pitches. I remember being too scared to fall, but the actual climbing was not too hard. Mar 5, 2014
You have not done the climb till you link the two pitches together. The bolts were put in on the lead and it was a great day to do the climb. We used EB's and they worked great. Please dont put more bilts in this climb. If you cant run it out you should just go get a cold beer Mar 5, 2014
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
I agree...keep it the way it is...just ware (spl?) pants Aug 8, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
And the point of adding bolts to a route done 35 years ago would be ? You could link the pitches with doubles anyway. Aug 8, 2011
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Do this route! Took a 15/20ft fall between the 2 and 3rd anchors with no pain! It is protected well and there is a 1 and 2 BD placement after the 3rd bolt to protect the finish. Aug 6, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
thanks for the beta! ill give it a go one of these days... Jul 26, 2011
Lee, you should try Condescending, the variation to the route that goes right and directly up the slab, instead of left of the alcove at the top of the first pitch. It's awesome-bolted slab climbing at 5.9 with good features on perfect stone! The bolts aren't damaged or quarter inchers like they are up the original second pitch. Also, I think that way you can basically link Condescendor into Consolation Prize for a great full length slab route. Jul 26, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i looked at pitch 2 the other day and all the bolt hangers looked smashed down a little... bummer, it looks "fun" (haha) i was psyched to give it a try but it might need some bolt work... Jul 12, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I'm pretty sure that originally the route started from the stance on the left. The start from the ground was done later. It's not much harder and makes the route better. Mar 30, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Did I hear that P2 caught some rockfall ? Nice climb, but don't try it in the heat. Sep 30, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Fun story: My friend Teresa took a decent fall on this. She was about 8 feet right and 4 feet above the second bolt when her feet slipped off, sending her skidding down the slab on her feet, backwards! When the rope caught her, she swung around, and the rope running from my belay device to the first draw caught her behind the legs and flipped her over. The funny part is, the moment before she fell, she was talking about how much grippier the rock was at that section! She was also sporting a splint and ace bandage on her right arm, due to a broken wrist from a bicycle crash. Jun 19, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
nice description, i was thinking about this one... Jun 18, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Note: I haven't done the second pitch yet...the guidebook mentions that it's not often climbed, mostly due to old 1/4" bolts. If someone does so before me, go ahead and send me the description and I'll add it. Jun 17, 2009