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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,264 total, 13/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Oct 1, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Great climbing in a great location. Follow a series of disjointed corners and flakes up the left hand side of the slab. Good gear and great climbing. Bolted belay in the top center of the slab. Much more fun than it's neighbor to the right.

Location

There are 2 routes on the 'indented slab'. This is the left route on the slab above the old man's dog.

Protection

Standard rack and draws.

Photos

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losbill  
No I haven't. I assume "by escape" you mean to top out by a route other than the Classic Corner.

I have traversed 100+ feet out left from the 2-bolt anchor at the base of the Indented Slab to scout The Riddler. Spotted what I thought was a nice line up slabs and blocks to the base of the headwall. Didn't see any obvious line through the headwall. I am planning someday to go up there and poke around and see if I can find something that would go at 5.9+ or so. Anyone else out there ever do The Riddler?

Not sure what you mean by the cave and the crack. I once did move straight up the dike from the Lunch Ledge past the left traverse to head to the Classic Corner pitch and up into a big cave-like feature just to the left of where the Old Man used to be. Moved up it towards the back, then 10+ feet up a pedestal-like feature on the left face. Then started traversing up and right using a thin finger crack and a narrow ramp for feet. I was headed for the back of the "cave" where it narrowed. There was what appeared to be a decent, somewhat overhanging hand crack to ride to the top. The ramp ran out a few moves from the hand crack. The entire face was soaking wet. Even if I made it there wasn't much chance of my partner being able to follow. Also he was inexperienced and did not lead. So the consequences of my taking a fall and getting banged up were not good and I backed off. Plus it seemed to be 5.9 or more in grade, which was definitely over my head at the time. Feb 16, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
have you tried to escape the slab on the left? there is/was very old tat at the apex of the left hand margin of the slab. it would put you way to the left of the Classic corner, maybe 100'. I've never gone over to lunch ledge from either weisner route. Like you stated, continue up the LF corner up and easy fist crack and turn the corner just before the steepish section before the final belay. I've also heard people have climbed the crack out of the cave at the last belay, looks cool. Feb 15, 2012
losbill  
"i forget if you can get from this anchor all of the way to the base of the classic corner"

Never tried it, might be able to do it. The thin flake pitch from the anchors on top of the Indented Slab takes you to a somewhat bushy ledge. The LF corner topped with the overhang is 10'- 20'(?) to the right. If you continue 20'-40' (?) further to the right beyond the corner you get to the Lunch Ledge proper. We belay at the base of the LF corner. Up the corner to the Classic Corner belay is maybe 70'(?). Feb 15, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
great addition. you have to simul on easy ground to reach that anchor from the top of p1. or make a quick belay to get your partner out of the slightly tricky start to p2, then simul. losbill is right, the huge ledge and old mans dog are a great place to hang out for a bit. The right hand route (2 indented heads) has a bolt at the start and then kinda crappy gear for the rest of the way and then a slight 20' runout at the top to get to the common anchor. i forget if you can get from this anchor all of the way to the base of the classic corner. Feb 11, 2012
losbill  
The two routes referred to were not touched by the Old Man's fall. They were to the left of the impact zone. Been a few years since my last outing up there but here goes ...

Go up Wiessner's Dike and belay at the bolted anchor. From there scramble up right through the blocks & weeds keeping tight to the right side of the Old Man's Dog to find a double-bolt anchor on flat terrain at the base of an approximately 50' wide slab. You may or may not be able to reach this anchor with a 60 meter, I can't recall. Looking up you should see on the left side of the slab 4 bolts leading up to a big block extending nearly halfway across slab. This is Two Heads Are Better Than One. Move right around the block, trend back left and up on the left side of the slab. You, if I remember correctly, have to reach down in the LF corner on your left to get gear once or twice. You will find 2-bolt anchor at the ledge atop the slab off to your right. It is a 160' - 170' pitch, very worthwhile at 5.9.

The second route goes up the very right side of the slab. Up and right of the anchor about 25' there is a small blocky overlap with bolt on the right edge of the slab. This is Indented Servants. Been really awhile since I did it but I remember a manky pin and some small cracks and flakes for gear after the bolt. Easier than THABTO but Jon S rates it as 5.9 as well. It ends at the same 2-bolt anchor as for THABTO.

From the anchor atop the slab follow thin flake up and right with somewhat sparse and finicky gear to ledge. Bring your pink tricam! Goes at 5.7. Up corner topped by overhang (5.6), out right and up to join Wiessner's Dike at the belay for the Au Cheval last pitch. Feb 10, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
So it was destroyed in the rock fall? Feb 9, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I thought this route was long gone Feb 7, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Does anyone have anymore information about this route? Feb 7, 2012