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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,788 total, 20/month
Shared By: chris21 on Jun 12, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Not sure exactly how far north of Wiessner's Dike to start, but 100ft give or take 20ft is probably ok. Look for a slab in newly exposed rock right at the ground capped by some overlaps maybe 40ft up. You want to ascend the slab and traverse to the left below the overlaps and exit around a corner onto a slab. You should see a bolt on an obvious ramp leading left. After the bolt it's another 40 ft to the belay in some flakes (bolts).

The second pitch climbs up and left of the belay through a series of flake systems to a slab move(5.8). Head left a bit more to an obvious line(some munge)then straight up for 40 ft or so, and then back right to what remains of the original belay ledge(2 bolts).

The third pitch is unchanged, except the corner immediately after the
slab crux (9-) sustained some damage. This pitch ends at a nice ledge which allows you to traverse left into Wiessner's.
P-4 and P-5 go straight up towards Weisner's corner, grassy belay for P-4, hanging belay for P-5 or you can belay from a ledge by a tree 20 feet lower
P-6 finish up Weisner's Corner and belay off old man remnants

pitch 1 is about 160 feet, pitch two is about 90 feet, pitches 3,4 and 5 are full rope length pitches (200 feet), and pitch 6 is about 120 feet

Be careful of loose rock, especially on the middle pitches

Location

route starts 100 feet right of Weisner's Dike, hike off right from the top, don't leave anything at the bottom.

Protection

BD cams .5, .75, .75, 1, 1, 2, tricams .5, 1, 1.5, 2, and two sets of stoppers, there was one fixed pin.

Photos

chris21
 
chris21  
 
Thanks for the corrections. Jun 19, 2013
ANM
ANM  
The bottom third of the beta photo is completely wrong. The traverse on the original P1 is much closer to the ground than in the picture. Also the John Sykes guidebook was published before the old man fell down and so his descriptions for everything to the North of Wiessner's can be off.

The start of the climb, the upper half of the 2nd pitch and the pitches above the third all got hammered in a severe way when the old man fell... Here is a revised description

Not sure exactly how far north of Wiessner's Dyke to start, but 100ft give or take 20ft is probably ok. Look for a slab in newly exposed rock right at the ground capped by some overlaps maybe 40ft up. You want to ascend the slab and traverse to the left below the overlaps and exit around a corner onto a slab. You should see a bolt on an obvious ramp leading left. After the bolt it's another 40 ft to the belay in some flakes (bolts).

The second pitch climbs up and left of the belay through a series of flake systems to a slab move(5.8). Head left a bit more to an obvious line(some munge)then straight up for 40 ft or so, and then back right to what remains of the original belay ledge(2 bolts).

The third pitch is unchanged, except the corner immediately after the
slab crux (9-) sustained some damage. This pitch ends at a nice ledge which allows you to traverse left into Wiessner's. Which i would recommend.

Some years ago (possibly 5) we rapped the route from the top of the third pitch cleaning most of the loose rock and replacing gear where needed. So it should be in mostly good shape.. be prepared for typical Cannon terrain.

Jun 19, 2013
chris21
 
chris21  
 
I think the overlap I mention in the description may be where you both did a "fingertips traverse" underneath. We went straight over it then went left and set a gear anchor. We didn't know what route we were on at the time and didn't figure it out until I got a guidebook a couple weeks later. Apr 26, 2013
chris21
 
chris21  
 
When I did Weisner's back in August I noticed that the overlap I mention on pitch 1 may be gone and the block that was the comfortable belay for pitch 2 is gone so my descriptions of those pitches are not accurate. If someone who has climbed this recently would write up a current description for those pitches, I will change the route description here.
Thanks,
- Chris Nov 11, 2012
yes, thank you frank, I did the same damn thing, a left angling fingertip traverse that was at least 9+. from the bolts atop pitch one you can rap and top rope an awesome direct pitch at 10c, excellent pitch, if it was well protected with two bolts it would certainly be more of a classic on cannon. Nov 5, 2011
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
The P1 description here varies significantly from that in Sykes book. And that P1 description should be modified. What we ended up doing involved a fingertips undercling (not a crack) and a sloping pegmatite slab traverse to the bolted belay (hardly a ramp. Was I off route? Yet everything seemed to be right where Sykes describes things to be.) Whatever that was, it seemed considerably harder than 5.6-5.7. Oct 11, 2011
anyone know the deal with the condition of this route after the rock fa ll? Ive heard that it was re-bolted and cleaned of some loose rock. Sep 15, 2011