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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Chris Ellms, Chris Rowins, and Steve Schneider 8/74 FFA: Jeff Burns, Stoney Middleton, and Steve Schneider Summer 1975
Page Views: 1,247 total, 22/month
Shared By: John Halupowski on May 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great 5.10 friction adventure on the Cannon slabs.


P.1 Climb 30' of the Consolation Prize ramp then up a 4-6" crack and left to belay ledge (2 bolts). 60' 5.7

P.2 Layback up the arch for 35', then climb the overlap (pin). Climb left past 2 bolts to a small ledge (2 bolts). 100' 5.10

P.3 Move right and up the overlap, and over it at the corner. Climb overlaps for about 60' to a bolt, then up left past another bolt to a small slab. Head left and belay at the base of a layback flake. 140' 5.9

P.4 Climb flake, then up right to an open book corner. Pull overlap at a thin crack to the belay at the base of a slab. 100' 5.8

P.5 Diagonal right up slab, then back left under a small overlap to Lunch Ledge. 100' 5.6

Finish as desired

Location

Start on the same ledge as for Snooky and Consolation Prize, left of the blank Condescender slab.

Protection

Standard Cannon rack with 2 Screamers for the old bolts

Photos

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ANM
ANM  
Andrei, this climb was damaged when the old man fell down... as were most of the routes in the vicinity. I'm not surprised that the bolts on P2 were flattened, they probably were due for replacement in any case. The pin may or may not have been hit as well, for what it's worth it was up and right a bit from where you surmount the overlap. If still there, it would be about 40 years old! All that being said, i've seen at least two parties climb the first two pitches since the big rockfall. The third pitch which used to be quite nice was really damaged..
Like most of the slab routes, it could use some TLC, ie. cleaning and hardware replacement.

Also: P1 is really 5.8 Jul 31, 2014
Andrei  
Couldn't find the pin on the second pitch and the bolts are all flattened. Also the variation to the right which is a nice 5.9 friction slab the 1 out of the 2 bolts that protect the climb has the hanger sliced. Jun 29, 2014