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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: callaghan strand mallery
Page Views: 275 total, 3/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I'm not sure if this has been hit by rockfall. it was very popular for a while, nice climbing at a moderate grade. I took a 70 footer at Albany Slabs on the morning of this f/a

Location

Near Vendetta. Start in a seam to an overlap. P2 up a nice slab past 2 bolts to a belay under an overlap. P3 Up past fixed ? pins for about 90'. P4 up over a bulge to join Lakeview.

Protection

some rp's and cams to 2"

Photos

Tom Cal  
This route was completely redone and cleared of loose rock in 10/16. When the Old Man fell he fell directly on this part of the cliff changing things quite a bit. Several of the routes in this area need to be redone and are most likely unclimbable.

New Discription.

1. Start 20 ft rt of Stairway to Heaven . Look for a thin vertical crack with a bolt visible at an overlap at 45ft. Climb the crack to the bolt. Pull over the tricky overlap (5.10A). Over the next overlap at an obvious break, to a sling belay. 80 ft.

2. Climb the beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.9), to a Small rt facing corner. Up the corner to a thin face (you 5.9 )bolt, to a semi hanging belay. 2 bolts 80 ft.

3. Using micro cam pro climb over the overlap just left of the belay or further left. Both 5.10B. Continue up the thin face (5.9 bolt) to a stance. Diagonal rt to another bolt then up to a 2 bolt belay. 80 ft.

4. Climb over the overlap (pins). Climb an arch to it's left end. Climb the delicate face ( 5.9 bolt) to an overlap. Face climb over the overlap to a horizontal crack. Up face to a 2 bolt belay.

5. You can climb up and left from here to join Lakeview, and finish up Wiessners, but most will rappel from the top of P#4. The old P# 5 is completely gone! A single 60M rope gets you down in 4 rappels. If you have 2 ropes, do a short rappel to the top of P#3. From here 1 very long rappel Just makes the ground.

Rack; brass nuts and micro cams. Regular rack to 3 in. Optional 3.5 in. All bolts are new 3/8 SS.

Good climbing reasonable protection. Have fun!

T .C. Dec 26, 2016
Climbed the first pitch recently. It's good thought provoking and fun all the pro was good and we replaced decades of tat on the anchor with something nicer. Pitch 2 had one newer and one old bolt on it and looked to be in fine shape. Jun 9, 2016
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
There is/was/maybe a thread on this on NE Climbs, actually on falling aspirations, but I think that it was affected and the affected pro was replaced. Mar 23, 2010