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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 412 total, 8/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Aug 25, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Just right of the first pitch of the horrifying ear is anothet right facing corner. Climb this corner to the top and traverse under the 'horrifying ear' through some loose rock till you are at the base of the con prize hand crack. Climb this and top out con prize or rap.

Location

10' to yhe right of wide first pitch.of the ear.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
We went out the thinner, next arch along that goes right..5.9 maybe, nice climbing. Nov 29, 2016
ANM
ANM  
From that photo, this is actually the 1st pitch of Stoney's revenge.... one of the most awesome climbs in all of NH. Originally the second pitch climbed the steep slab just right of the chimney (2? bolts) directly, and merged with the Horrifying Ear. That pitch was established by Steve(not Yosemite)Schneider around 78. A year or so later the less direct but more elegantly contrived line was put in by Chris Ellms and Stoney Middleton.

Vendetta is then next fairly large corner to the right. It's identifiable by its arching corner which turns into a long narrow overlap

Also: From the photo of Todd, I noticed where he has crossed the Horrifying Ear and moved left over to conn prize... this was only made possible by the old man rock fall, that spot used to be a solid side of the chimney. The normal/original exit was at the top of the chimney via some thin flakes and up into the thin little slanting corner to Todd's right. Jul 31, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Vendetta- Howard peterson '74 ..I'm pretty sure Aug 29, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
We had planned on doing the ear, but the first pitch eats up wide cams which we had none. So we started up the wide obvious corner and moved right after the bush. Fun single pitch or awesome with the pitch 2 hand crack. Aug 25, 2013