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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fritz Weissner &
Page Views: 4,837 total, 48/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Oct 1, 2009 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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16 Opinions

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Description

P1-Climb the dike from where the dike touches down to the ground to a 2 bolt anchor under the old man's dog. 5.4

P2-Climb right from the belay through some loose rock and trend up and right staying to the right of the old man's dog, you should go past a 4" birch on this pitch, stay just to the right of it and belay at the start of some 3rd/4th class slabs. 5.4

P3-climb 100' of 3rd/4th class and belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the base of the indented slab.

P4-Climb the right hand margin of the slab, bushy and a little loose till you get to a medium sized tree ledge with a OLD 1 bolt anchor next to a perfect crack. 5.4

P5-Climb straight up from the belay going under an easy roof to a 4" crack in a beautiful dihedral to another roof, pull the roof on the right and you will join the second to last pitch on lakeview near the top. Sinker jams on this pitch. 5.5

P6-The archival hump and the classic corner to the top. Belay off cables. 5.6
[NOTE: This pitch, while technically on Lakeview, is where the 5.6 rating comes from for Weissner's Dike. R.Hall]

Location

Look at the cliff, find the dike, climb it.

Protection

Standard Rack
ANM
ANM  
I certainly wouldn't give this route a negative review, however anyone who intends to climb this should be aware that the old man rockfall event severely damaged the 2nd pitch. The upper half of the pitch has quite a bit of loose rock on it. Once at the birch tree mentioned in the description, trend up and right. Its still a bit insecure, but not real scary.. also it's more like 5.5-5.6 now.

Also if are in need of retreat above the p1 belay, i would recommend anything other than heading down p2.... you pull the ropes you are likely to get rocks with it. There is a small ledge leading north from the bottom of the big corner that will put you in line with Falling Aspirations. You may have to leave bit of gear, but it's pretty safe and fast. Jul 31, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
One of my first routes ever on Cannon. The last four pitches are excellent and I am surprised by how little activity this route sees. Possibly due to some negative reviews online. Definitely a better alternative to Lakeview, with an easy option to rappel if the weather gets nasty (if you haven't been trapped on Cannon in a surprise rainstorm.... I certainly don't recommend it). BEWARE of rapid changes in the weather in Franconia Notch people!! Jan 3, 2012