Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fritz Weissner &
Page Views: 5,334 total · 47/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Oct 1, 2009 with updates from Ron Birk
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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19 Opinions

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P1-Climb the dike from where the dike touches down to the ground to a 2 bolt anchor under the old man's dog. 5.4

P2-Climb right from the belay through some loose rock and trend up and right staying to the right of the old man's dog, you should go past a 4" birch on this pitch, stay just to the right of it and belay at the start of some 3rd/4th class slabs. 5.4

P3-climb 100' of 3rd/4th class and belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the base of the indented slab.

P4-Climb the right hand margin of the slab, bushy and a little loose till you get to a medium sized tree ledge with a OLD 1 bolt anchor next to a perfect crack. 5.4

P5-Climb straight up from the belay going under an easy roof to a 4" crack in a beautiful dihedral to another roof, pull the roof on the right and you will join the second to last pitch on lakeview near the top. Sinker jams on this pitch. 5.5

P6-The archival hump and the classic corner to the top. Belay off cables. 5.6
[NOTE: This pitch, while technically on Lakeview, is where the 5.6 rating comes from for Weissner's Dike. R.Hall]


Look at the cliff, find the dike, climb it.


Standard Rack
Leominster, MA
JD1984   Leominster, MA
One of my first routes ever on Cannon. The last four pitches are excellent and I am surprised by how little activity this route sees. Possibly due to some negative reviews online. Definitely a better alternative to Lakeview, with an easy option to rappel if the weather gets nasty (if you haven't been trapped on Cannon in a surprise rainstorm.... I certainly don't recommend it). BEWARE of rapid changes in the weather in Franconia Notch people!! Jan 3, 2012
I certainly wouldn't give this route a negative review, however anyone who intends to climb this should be aware that the old man rockfall event severely damaged the 2nd pitch. The upper half of the pitch has quite a bit of loose rock on it. Once at the birch tree mentioned in the description, trend up and right. Its still a bit insecure, but not real scary.. also it's more like 5.5-5.6 now.

Also if are in need of retreat above the p1 belay, i would recommend anything other than heading down p2.... you pull the ropes you are likely to get rocks with it. There is a small ledge leading north from the bottom of the big corner that will put you in line with Falling Aspirations. You may have to leave bit of gear, but it's pretty safe and fast. Jul 31, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
This route is to the left of Lakeview for it's entirety, so unlike other routes on the slabs you do not have to worry about parties above you on Lakeview knocking rocks off.

This route can be a classic 5.9 adventure if you do the alternate pitches. Beware of the Dog (5.9) and the climbs up the indented slab (5.9 PG13) are amazing and on good solid rock, and the last two pitches of Weissner's Dike are classics at the 5.6 grade. We did not do Micron, but it looked like an excellent replacement for the first pitch and would make the route more consistent in the 5.9 grade and even more interesting.

I'd love to know if anyone has ever moved from the belay on top of the Old Man's Dog (Top of Beware of the Dog) through the bushes directly to the bolted anchor at the left bottom end of the indented slab. We weren't sure, so we rapped back down to the P1 anchors and then did the traditional P2 and then a pitch of 4th class scrambling to those anchors. The climbing is good, but nothing classic.

Be aware that if you climb the indented slab you will have to do a bit of 5.6R to connect back up with Weissner's Dyke at the single (old) bolt + crack belay at the base of the 2nd to last pitch. We did it by climbing straight up 10-15' to the left of the obvious low-angle dihedral, which has some vegetated cracks for small pro (5.6R) and will give you easy access to the belay ledge once below the mini roof. Or rap back down then do the traditional pitch up the dike to the right of the slab. This looked like way less fun.

The moral of the story is that there is a classic and very interesting multipitch option here that goes at 5.9 PG13 (5.6R) which uses the skeleton of the Weissner's Dike route, but doesn't actually climb the route very much. If anyone has more information about how to best link the interesting pitches, I would appreciate hearing that! I really think that with a path carved from the top of the Dog to the base of the indented slabs, and if the climbing above the indented slabs before the "5th pitch" belay ledge gets cleaned up, we're talking about one of the premier moderate routes up Cannon. Certainly the premier route on the slabs. P1 Micron, P2 Beware of the Dog, P3 traverse to below the indented slab, P4 climb the indented slab, P5 gain the ledge, P6 Weissner's Dike corner finish, P7 the classic Old Man finish. Sep 24, 2018