Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 160 ft|
|FA:||Chris Ellms & Mike Keating (1986)|
|Page Views:||522 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Z. on Sep 18, 2011|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionAnother fine friction route that climbs the beautiful arete right of Condecender. In it's current condition this is a spicy climb but is only reminiscent of the first ascent when Cris Ellms bouldered the entire arete with no gear! Later another party, unaware of this placed two bolts on lead, in my opinion making it repeatable.
From the ground boulder up past a bolt to another bolt at a good stance, aim for a pin then climb a thin crack linking with Consolation Prize's second pitch. Belay From P2 on C. Prize
Alternatively you can climb the chimney corner just to the right of the arete then step left to the second bolt. This is the start to The Horrifying Ear (5.5) and is a good way to top rope the initial boulder problem start.