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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 160 ft
FA: Chris Ellms & Mike Keating (1986)
Page Views: 522 total · 7/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another fine friction route that climbs the beautiful arete right of Condecender. In it's current condition this is a spicy climb but is only reminiscent of the first ascent when Cris Ellms bouldered the entire arete with no gear! Later another party, unaware of this placed two bolts on lead, in my opinion making it repeatable.

From the ground boulder up past a bolt to another bolt at a good stance, aim for a pin then climb a thin crack linking with Consolation Prize's second pitch. Belay From P2 on C. Prize

Alternatively you can climb the chimney corner just to the right of the arete then step left to the second bolt. This is the start to The Horrifying Ear (5.5) and is a good way to top rope the initial boulder problem start.

Location

About 20 feet north of Condescender the obvious spicey bolted arete.

Protection

Standard light rack, not much for gear on the first half of the route.

Photos

Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
I only remember seeing one bolt when climbing the Horrifying Ear a few weeks ago. Aug 8, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
a second bolt ? I placed only one, at the start. Clipping the pin at groundfall zone. A fine climb anyway. Sep 19, 2011