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Routes in 5. Slabs

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blockade Direct ? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cirrus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Condescender T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Consolation Prize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falling Aspirations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lima Bean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip o' Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretched On Your Grave TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wag, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weissners Butress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Weissners Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Howard Peterson, John Porter, David Tibbetts, 1972
Page Views: 671 total · 8/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Aug 7, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The first pitch is fun with its slippery friction crux through the watercourse. There is a convenient bolt belay to rap from. Continuing up is an adventure with the classic Lakeview finish.

This description varies somewhat from the one I had. It said something about a slab some bushes and an overlap? Here is what I found

P1 5.8 90, From below the bean climb about 20 feet reaching an overlap this is passed more easily on the left side. Then move back right to the watercourse friction climbing past two bolts to a bolt belay in the bean.

P2 5.7 (5.5R) 180, Head straight up through a break in an overlap with good gear then run out the easy face above aiming for a cave. Belay under the cave with big gear or to the right with small gear, or something else.

P3 Finish up Lakeview

Location

Start below the Lima bean shaped depression on the right side of the slabs

You can rap from a bolted belay on P1 with a single 60m, recommended, otherwise finish up Lakeview

Protection

Two bolts, standard rack

Photos

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