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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hartrich, Schwarm 1974
Page Views: 7,334 total, 66/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2008 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Duet Direct is a stout and neglected two-pitch route near the popular one pitch climbs of Slow and Easy and Sticky Fingers. The first pitch is an excellent warm up for the business on the second pitch. Here, expect Devil's Tower-style stemming and Yosemite-quality granite. I'm surprised that this excellent and well-protected route doesn't get more traffic.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up thin but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a comfortable stance and a belay/rap station.

Pitch 2 (5.10+ 120ft): Climb the steep corner by stemming, jamming, and laybacking--sometimes using all three techniques at once. This pitch is very well protected and given the steep angle and the solid, clean rock, it's easy to forget you're at Cannon. Finish the route at a two bolt anchor on a perfect ledge.

Descent: Ideally, use double 70m ropes to rap to the ground. Double 60m ropes MIGHT make the ground with rope stretch, but be sure to tie knots in case yours have shrunk! A single 70m MIGHT make the fixed-gear belay at the top of P1; but again be sure to tie knots in case you come up short! At any rate, be mindful of where the rope runs, as the cracks can be rope-eaters.

Location

Duet Direct climbs up the left side of Duet Buttress, which is located left of the central wall and right of the Black Dike area. It is identified by the soaring, steep, and clean dihedral on the second pitch.

Protection

Cannon rack plus doubles in the mid-sizes (from yellow Alien through yellow Camalot), helmet, calves of steel.

Photos

Daniel Weisman
  5.10+
Daniel Weisman  
  5.10+
Probably the best single pitch of climbing I've done anywhere. This thing has all the best parts of granite climbing, plus a stellar position and solid pro. All-time classic anywhere. (Just sayin'!) Sep 25, 2017
Silas Miller
Conway, NH
 
Silas Miller   Conway, NH
 
I would say this is one of the best pitches I've ever climbed! Sustained 5.9 moves for days, I wish it kept going! A 70m simul-rap will easily get you back to the top of the first pitch. Nice anchors too. Nov 21, 2016
i thought the first pitch of this would be the 1st pitch of "Duet" which is a 5.7 that ends with a fixed gear anchor (was a couple hexes and a nut or two when I was there)

is there another variation to get to that same belay that goes at 5.8? I looked around but the most obvious line is P1 Duet. that worked well enough and was an interesting climb. Aug 1, 2016
burado
New Hampshire
burado   New Hampshire
One of the best 5.10s in NH. Sep 25, 2015
bradley white
Bend
  5.9+
bradley white   Bend
  5.9+
I climbed this referring to Ross and Elm's little red guide book and in here its 5.9. I've climbed it more than once. Its a Hartrich 5.9 and Duet is 5.7. Maybe its 5.9 in EB's. JK. Its easier to place gear and way harder to follow clean getting out stuck gear. Sep 17, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
maybe..for sure top 5 Jul 31, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I might be so bold as to call the Duet Direct crux pitch the best 5.10 pitch in New Hampshire. Jul 31, 2014
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
 
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
 
Steep and glorious. If you are looking to test your trad pump endurance without getting into dicey gear situations, this route is for you. Great gear the whole way. Have faith passing the pod. Decent jams are not far off!

No single move felt like .10+. Instead the crux is very long with a bunch of stacked .10 moves in a row. Shake out and keep going!

For those interested:

- Gear: If this is at your limit and you want to sew it up (like I did), climb the pitch with triples of #.75 and #1 cams. Doubles of the #.2 X4 are nice for when things get thin and you want gear. Keeping doubles of #.3, #.4, and #.5 is nice, even if superfluous (good psych pro, I guess). 1 #2 and 1 #3 should do the trick post crux and on up to the anchors. Take any extra finger-sized pieces that help keep your head game in check about leading this long pitch... or just be a rope gun...

- Rappel: 2 60m ropes will JUST make it down to the ground. Another team that rapped from Raven Crack (shared rap anchor at the top of the Duet Buttress) reached the easy ledges a few feet off the ground (easy, short down-scramble); 2 70m ropes will be plenty (what we did) . Otherwise, plan on rapping to the first belay station (fixed nuts and a hex), but even then, one 70m rope is cutting it close... Jul 30, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b/c
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b/c
This would get climbed as often as Book of Solemnity and Nutcracker if it were a few minutes closer to the parking lot. Toproping this climb is ridiculous, it is as "G" as 5.10 can be. Don't miss the bonus on rappel and go back up the regular Duet, that's a pitch worth doing. Jan 16, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I MIGHT give it 9+ every move... and the crux. Nov 4, 2011
9+? have you not climbed this bradley? that's some asinine shit. Nov 4, 2011
It's possible to rap Duet Direct with a 70m, though the rap down to P1 belay you should make sure you have an extra double length sling handy to put yourself into the anchor since it is very close. Also the last person on rappel should have a single knot in the rope so it doesn't spring up and out of reach after they are off. Or use two ropes if you prefer. Oct 24, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
9+ Bradley ?? THAT'S a good one. Let's get Diedre back to 5.8 now. Feb 2, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
We were rapping down it after doing raven crack. But it is on the docket for tomorrow so we shall see... May 23, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Thanks for the correction Erik. I made the change. What did you guys think of the route? May 23, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Jay, I rapped duet today with one 70m and we had to down climb to get to the second rappel. Did we miss the anchor or has it moved? it was 4 fixed nuts and hexes. At any rate, it was not possible to rappel this route in two raps with a 70m in the state that the anchors are in now. May 22, 2010
redpoint robby
Dover, NH
redpoint robby   Dover, NH
If you want to work this thing the anchor can be reached via Duet, a more moderate option. May 16, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
 
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
 
And Hartrich called it 5.9. This route is SOOOO good! Mar 7, 2010
nope john is correct in all venues. Not even comparable the only thing they have in common is that they're both dihedrals, Duet is thinner and has no rest ledges. Full value NH 10+. Mar 5, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
.... and not at all the same Feb 17, 2010
Andrei  
If you like the last pitch of Recompense at Cathedral, you will like this one too. It's longer and harder and more sustained but very well protected. Jan 17, 2009