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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: roger martin and chuck zaikowski
Page Views: 5,266 total, 42/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack to the left of Sticky Fingers (5.10). It is a beautiful right arching crack that looks way more straight forward than it is.
Jam and layback up the crack; you may be surprised at how thin the crack gets in the back. It's not a hand crack. There was no real crux as I could see, but it's a sustained pitch that wears you down over the full 80 or so feet. Tricky bugger...

Slow and Easy is a good route to get on while you wait for the crowds to thin on the full length routes.

Location

Just to the right of Duet is a smooth less than vertical face with two right leaning cracks. This is the left one.

Protection

Looks like it takes lots of big gear but it takes a selection so don't forget the small stuff.
Gorgeous line! I thought it was a little soft for 5.8, but there is this "pod" kinda thing halfway up that makes for the one tricky sequence. Didn't find it awkward. Smooth climbing in fact! Jul 10, 2017
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
Yes May 4, 2016
B L
Montréal, Québec
B L   Montréal, Québec
Are there bolts/rappel rings at the top of this? May 3, 2016
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.8
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.8
Beautiful varied climbing, fingers to fists; good pro, but stances to place it aren't always obvious. I enjoyed this a lot. Jul 8, 2013
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
That's freakin great Jay! LMAO Nov 6, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This should be renamed "Sharp and Awkward." Oct 5, 2008