Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: roger martin and chuck zaikowski, 1973
Page Views: 5,748 total · 41/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

66 Opinions

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Climb the crack to the left of Sticky Fingers (5.10). It is a beautiful right arching crack that looks way more straight forward than it is.
Jam and layback up the crack; you may be surprised at how thin the crack gets in the back. It's not a hand crack. There was no real crux as I could see, but it's a sustained pitch that wears you down over the full 80 or so feet. Tricky bugger...

Slow and Easy is a good route to get on while you wait for the crowds to thin on the full length routes.


Just to the right of Duet is a smooth less than vertical face with two right leaning cracks. This is the left one.


Looks like it takes lots of big gear but it takes a selection so don't forget the small stuff.


Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This should be renamed "Sharp and Awkward." Oct 5, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
That's freakin great Jay! LMAO Nov 6, 2008
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
Beautiful varied climbing, fingers to fists; good pro, but stances to place it aren't always obvious. I enjoyed this a lot. Jul 8, 2013
Montréal, Québec
B L   Montréal, Québec
Are there bolts/rappel rings at the top of this? May 3, 2016
Yes May 4, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Gorgeous line! I thought it was a little soft for 5.8, but there is this "pod" kinda thing halfway up that's pretty tricky. Smooth climbing though! Jul 10, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
One of the early climbs that showed you didn't have to go to the top to be a good route....that was something of a novel (and sort of "groundbreaking") idea at the time. Jul 22, 2018