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Routes in 1. Whitney-Gilman Area

Ambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meatgrinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Whitney Gilman Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Chris Elms & Andy Tuthill 1975
Page Views: 4,568 total · 45/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Perfect hands in the back of a really tight v notch. Climb up this with great gear up to a small roof, pass this on the right to a stance. Up 10' of tight fingers and another 10' of perfect handcrack to the ledge. There is a slung block to belay from. We did this as a one pitch climb, it does connect with WG, but that is for another day. If you like handcracks, this is second only to reppy's on cannon!

Location

400 feet downhill and to the left of WG, 200 feet left of meatgrinder is this perfect hand crack. Look for an obvious left facing tight V-groove.

Protection

Standard rack with 2-2 and 2-3. Save a 3 for the top!!!

Photos

Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.8
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.8
Perfect description! Excellent gear placement. It was my forth trad lead ever. I would have felt a bit more comfortable with 3-3, but I think that is because i'm still getting adjusted to trad :) I only climbed the first pitch! Aug 7, 2017
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.8
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.8
P2 starts out nice, up just right of the belay; the gear and climbing is better than it looks from below. Then you get a lot of "choose your own adventure", where the easiest lines aren't too challenging, or you can choose interesting variations. The rock quality detereorates higher up, becoming scary -- I pulled loose a microwave-sized block with very little force. Time to exit right, joining W-G at their third belay ledge.

edit-- Sykes' guidebook says up and *left* from the belay, not joining Whitney-G until after the fourth pitch. So, um, I did the FA of a variation? Sep 8, 2014
Theriault
Quebec, Quebec
  5.8
Theriault   Quebec, Quebec
  5.8
Do it! +1!! Oct 17, 2013
Michael Z.
  5.8
Michael Z.  
  5.8
Did it and Meatgrinder, thanks guys Aug 31, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
speaking of meatgrinder ?????? Jul 7, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Do this route! Sep 21, 2009

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