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Routes in 1. Whitney-Gilman Area

Ambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meatgrinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Whitney Gilman Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Chris Elms & Andy Tuthill 1975
Page Views: 4,742 total · 45/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Perfect hands in the back of a really tight v notch. Climb up this with great gear up to a small roof, pass this on the right to a stance. Up 10' of tight fingers and another 10' of perfect handcrack to the ledge. There is a slung block to belay from. We did this as a one pitch climb, it does connect with WG, but that is for another day. If you like handcracks, this is second only to reppy's on cannon!

Location [Suggest Change]

400 feet downhill and to the left of WG, 200 feet left of meatgrinder is this perfect hand crack. Look for an obvious left facing tight V-groove.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack with 2-2 and 2-3. Save a 3 for the top!!!

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Do this route! Sep 21, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
speaking of meatgrinder ?????? Jul 7, 2010
Michael Z.
  5.8
Michael Z.  
  5.8
Did it and Meatgrinder, thanks guys Aug 31, 2011
Theriault
Quebec, Quebec
  5.8
Theriault   Quebec, Quebec
  5.8
Do it! +1!! Oct 17, 2013
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.8
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.8
P2 starts out nice, up just right of the belay; the gear and climbing is better than it looks from below. Then you get a lot of "choose your own adventure", where the easiest lines aren't too challenging, or you can choose interesting variations. The rock quality detereorates higher up, becoming scary -- I pulled loose a microwave-sized block with very little force. Time to exit right, joining W-G at their third belay ledge.

edit-- Sykes' guidebook says up and *left* from the belay, not joining Whitney-G until after the fourth pitch. So, um, I did the FA of a variation? Sep 8, 2014
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.8
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.8
Perfect description! Excellent gear placement. It was my forth trad lead ever. I would have felt a bit more comfortable with 3-3, but I think that is because i'm still getting adjusted to trad :) I only climbed the first pitch! Aug 7, 2017
Steve Marshall
Concord NH
Steve Marshall   Concord NH
Managed this quite safely with 1 #3 by walking it for the bottom portion until I could get a #2 in the pod on the right hand wall. Then took it with me for the top part. Was a bit more shenanigans than I would have liked for such a straightforward climb. But, gotta work with what ya got. 8 hours ago
Charles Proctor
Somerville, MA
Charles Proctor   Somerville, MA
Great route! I didn't do it but if you climb/scramble up and right from the belay you can link up into the Whitney G at the 1st pitch belay ledge. Otherwise you can rap with a single 60m. The cord on the block is getting pretty old and should be cleaned up/replaced. 8 hours ago

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