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Routes in 1. Whitney-Gilman Area

Ambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meatgrinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Whitney Gilman Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1, Andy Tuthill 1977. P2 & 3, Stoney Middleton, Chris Rowins & Chris Ellms
Page Views: 2,375 total · 27/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Aug 27, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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The first pitch is fun and good if your craging on Cannon with an easy walk off. Great climbing on al three pitches, the 5.9 corner would be a classic if it were on the ground. Pitch one is a tough 5.10. Meatgrinder linked with the 5.8 and 5.9 variations makes for a nice experience if you're looking for another way up the ridge.

P1 5.10+ 110, Once off the ground thin and hard jamming awaits, but is over quickly. Continue up sinker fingers through the bushes to a ledge and belay.
(Here you are just left of the W.G. 5.6 start and can easily scramble off if you don't wish to continue)

P2 5.10+ 40, This pitch starts up the second crack left of the W.G. Climb a short thin left leaning crack and pull around an outside corner and belay on a slab below a left facing corner.

P3 5.9 120, Head up the striking corner exiting left at its top, some rockaineering up and right joins the W.G. At its first official belay ledge.


Approach as for the Whitney G. then head south and down to the bottom of the ridge proper. The start is marked by an obvious thin vertical crack on a clean face. The P3 corner is also visible from the ground.


Standard Rack with some small stuff for the thin cracks.


john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Nice climb with short ,well protected cruxes. Aug 30, 2011

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