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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2003
Page Views: 1,169 total, 11/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I led up with no protection in the corner (5-3) on the left side of the slabs very close to the Black Dike and entered the arch moving to the left doing some tricky (5-5) moves at the top of the arch and then a run out onto easier (5-4) climbing across the slab moving right into the cubbyhole like place with a five foot ceiling above it to belay. This is where a rappel station-belay is now set up with pins. From under this ceiling I led up right underneath the ceiling and up around it to these incredibly big stacked and cracked solid sections of rock to get into a large long vertical crack system. I went up easily (5-4) the crack 30 ft and at its end moved horizontally right to intersect with Shadey Grove. I contrived a belay, belayed Craig up and we finished up Shadey Grove’s 2nd pitch. Long run outs on solid rock.

Location

Close to the Black Dike is a left facing corner. Start here.

Protection

inadequate fixed pins on first pitch. Fixed belay-rappel pins. Minimal trad. rack. Nothing large needed.

Photos

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