Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Drew, Paul Base '76. FFA: Tuthill, Ellms '77
Page Views: 5,505 total · 52/month
Shared By: E thatcher on May 22, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Raven Crack is an often overlooked extension to the popular route, Slow and Easy.

P1: Climb slow and easy to the 2 bolt belay. 5.8

P2: Head up and left to the right leaning chimney with ominous looking flakes. Chimney up using finger cracks in the flakes for protection and jams. Continue up the twin cracks on awesome lie backs and finger jams. A very fun and fully sustained pitch. The anchor is 2 fixed nuts and a pin. Lower off here or continue up for a third pitch. 5.9 60'

P3: Step around the corner and into the exposure where an awesome hand crack awaits you. Climb this till you reach the right side of the Duet buttress. Traverse left on easy 4th class to the two bolt belay on Duet Direct. 5.8, 140'


Above Slow and Easy, the prominent right angling hand crack on the left edge of the big wall section


Standard rack. Doubles in the finger size may be appreciated for the 2nd pitch. Need 2 60M ropes to rappel down Duet Direct.


lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
this looks SICK! thanks for the photos to get me motivated Jul 13, 2011
raven is awesome when linked up with sticky fingers, every pitch has great climbing, however all quite different. Nov 4, 2011
Jeffrey Dunn    
I disagree that the climbing on the second and third pitches "has some very loose, terrible rock". In fact, the cracks are superb and very high quality. After stepping left off the belay, head straight up the cracks aiming for a big ledge/stance on the right arete. A tricky move back left and some more crack climbing gets you to the 3rd/4th class traverse ledge. When you get to the end of the dirty ramp, you are standing 3 feet above the bolts on Duet Direct. I found two decent placements (one mid way and the other just above the belay) to keep the rope from dragging across the loose ramp and potentially knocking down rocks. May 14, 2012
This is such a fantastic route! P2 has such great moves- chimneying to a killer layback flake, great friction for feet, good pro. I wish the anchor at the top of p2 had a couple bolts... it would see a lot more traffic I think, if it had a more substantial anchor-- it's a piton and two tiny nuts with rusty wires right now. Anchor can be built or backed up with cams around the corner. Third pitch gives some awesome exposure with fairly mellow climbing and great gear. Top of the 3rd pitch we ended up rapping from a slung block- did some exploration to the top of the Triple S buttress but couldn't find an anchor-- Wormley's description of being 3 feet above the bolts would have been helpful! It worked, 2 raps to the ground, but be careful of knocking off lots of loose softball-sized rocks from the ledge. Sep 21, 2012
twellman   Cambridge
4 stars for the chimney to layback pitch. I agree with Andrea that a bolt anchor atop this pitch would be ideal, as the last pitch is only good for the first 30 feet then degrades into loose rock everywhere. Overall a very worthwhile Cannon adventure with great pro on the hard parts. Jun 27, 2015
Lyons, CO
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
The money pitch is 4 stars for sure....just make sure the lower crack is dry before you decide it'll be a nice 5.9 lead. More like solid 10 when the lower of the two right angling cracks is wet through the crux after the (awesome) chimney moves. Great gear in the dry upper crack means it stays safe in this condition, just bloody hard at 9 Aug 3, 2015
Sean M
Sean M  
Got on this climb for the second time 8/19/2018. First of all, the third pitch is highly NOT recommended. Very loose, and even if you're careful you'll probably knock stuff off, both on the way up, and on the way down. While rappelling the third pitch you have to pass many "rock icicles" which are just waiting to be kicked off. Not worth it for the risk to anyone at the base.

When I did the second pitch this Sunday someone had stolen/removed the cord that equalized the piton and fixed nut. I added some fresh cord to equalize, but plan on bringing some just in case its been removed again. This anchor could really used a fixed tricam or hex around the corner to the right to make it safer. If I do it again I'll probably bring something to leave. This piece will need some long webbing to bring it around the corner and integrate it with the piton. Aug 21, 2018
It is a Yin and Yang universe. I highly recommend the third pitch. Aug 21, 2018
Owen Silitch
New Hampshire
Owen Silitch   New Hampshire
Fun route! Just don't climb it when it is seeping wet like I did...
Also third pitch was awesome Oct 9, 2018