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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Drew, Paul Base '76. FFA: Tuthill, Ellms '77
Page Views: 5,027 total, 55/month
Shared By: E thatcher on May 22, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Raven Crack is an often overlooked extension to the popular route, Slow and Easy.

P1: Climb slow and easy to the 2 bolt belay. 5.8

P2: Head up and left to the right leaning chimney with ominous looking flakes. Chimney up using finger cracks in the flakes for protection and jams. Continue up the twin cracks on awesome lie backs and finger jams. A very fun and fully sustained pitch. The anchor is 2 fixed nuts and a pin. Lower off here or continue up for a third pitch. 5.9 60'

P3: Step around the corner and into the exposure where an awesome hand crack awaits you. Climb this till you reach the right side of the Duet buttress. Traverse left on easy 4th class to the two bolt belay on Duet Direct. 5.8, 140'

Location

Above Slow and Easy, the prominent right angling hand crack on the left edge of the big wall section

Protection

Standard rack. Doubles in the finger size may be appreciated for the 2nd pitch. Need 2 60M ropes to rappel down Duet Direct.
Dankasaurus
Lyons, CO
 
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
 
The money pitch is 4 stars for sure....just make sure the lower crack is dry before you decide it'll be a nice 5.9 lead. More like solid 10 when the lower of the two right angling cracks is wet through the crux after the (awesome) chimney moves. Great gear in the dry upper crack means it stays safe in this condition, just bloody hard at 9 Aug 3, 2015
twellman
Cambridge
  5.10a
twellman   Cambridge
  5.10a
4 stars for the chimney to layback pitch. I agree with Andrea that a bolt anchor atop this pitch would be ideal, as the last pitch is only good for the first 30 feet then degrades into loose rock everywhere. Overall a very worthwhile Cannon adventure with great pro on the hard parts. Jun 27, 2015
This is such a fantastic route! P2 has such great moves- chimneying to a killer layback flake, great friction for feet, good pro. I wish the anchor at the top of p2 had a couple bolts... it would see a lot more traffic I think, if it had a more substantial anchor-- it's a piton and two tiny nuts with rusty wires right now. Anchor can be built or backed up with cams around the corner. Third pitch gives some awesome exposure with fairly mellow climbing and great gear. Top of the 3rd pitch we ended up rapping from a slung block- did some exploration to the top of the Triple S buttress but couldn't find an anchor-- Wormley's description of being 3 feet above the bolts would have been helpful! It worked, 2 raps to the ground, but be careful of knocking off lots of loose softball-sized rocks from the ledge. Sep 21, 2012
Jeffrey Dunn    
 
I disagree that the climbing on the second and third pitches "has some very loose, terrible rock". In fact, the cracks are superb and very high quality. After stepping left off the belay, head straight up the cracks aiming for a big ledge/stance on the right arete. A tricky move back left and some more crack climbing gets you to the 3rd/4th class traverse ledge. When you get to the end of the dirty ramp, you are standing 3 feet above the bolts on Duet Direct. I found two decent placements (one mid way and the other just above the belay) to keep the rope from dragging across the loose ramp and potentially knocking down rocks. May 14, 2012
raven is awesome when linked up with sticky fingers, every pitch has great climbing, however all quite different. Nov 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
this looks SICK! thanks for the photos to get me motivated Jul 13, 2011