All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > Duet Area etc

Sticky Fingers

Name: Sticky Fingers
Rating: 3.4

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Duet Area etc

L › R R › L A › Z

	Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
	Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
	Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
	Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
	Sinister Satisfaction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sticky Fingers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	44.15667, -71.68665
FA:	Bryan Delaney and Howard Peterson
Page Views:	11,780 total · 52/month
Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Jun 19, 2007
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t… Details

Description

Sticky Fingers is an awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks. The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone. OK, the second pitch is good;it just made me whimper.

I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.

Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.

Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.

One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.