Avg: 3.3 from 46 votes
Routes in 2. Duet Area etc
|Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13|
|Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-|
|Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R|
|Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R|
|Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0|
|Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 100 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bryan Delaney and Howard Peterson|
|Page Views:||7,789 total, 61/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jun 19, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionSticky Fingers is an awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks. The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone. OK, the second pitch is good;it just made me whimper.
I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.
Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.
Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.
One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.