Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bryan Delaney and Howard Peterson
Page Views: 9,574 total · 60/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Sticky Fingers is an awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks. The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone. OK, the second pitch is good;it just made me whimper.

I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.

Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.

Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.

One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.

Location

Just right of Slow and Easy 5.8, it is the right angling thin crack.

Protection

Pitch 1: This pitch eats up nuts and small cams. Don't bother with hand sized stuff.

Pitch 2: All you need is 3 draws.

Photos