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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area

Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R
Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Phil Nelson and Allen Wedgewood in '65
Page Views: 3,118 total, 110/month
Shared By: brucelacroix on Aug 14, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The perfect handcrack right of Moby Grape original start.

Location

Right of the original start of Moby Grape.

Brian's directions: To get there walk south along the bike path for a few minutes until you see a giant boulder with a sign next to it. Just beyond that there is a point where the path shoulder gets wider and there will be a faint trail on the right (west) that is sometimes marked by a small cairn. Follow the trail up to the talus slope and boulder hop following cairns. You can see Reppy's from the talus field.

Protection

Standard rack with double hand size pieces.

Photos

"off-width feet" Jun 4, 2017
There's a solid, bolted anchor and chain at the top. Head right after the crack then back up left and you'll see it.

Agreed, this crack hurts the feet. A lot.

A C4 4 can protect the move outta the pod, but it's a risky fit. Plug a 3 slightly higher if you can. May 25, 2017
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
To get there walk south along the bike path for a few minutes until you see a giant boulder with a sign next to it. Just beyond that there is a point where the path shoulder gets wider and there will be a faint trail on the right (west) that is sometimes marked by a small cairn. Follow the trail up to the talus slope and boulder hop following cairns. You can see Reppy's from the talus field. Nov 26, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Your right mark,, just screwing around. Some stuff about the approach and anchors might be good, until things change !

The climb description itself is perfect---climb the crack Nov 26, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sure John, but it is easy enough to put whether the approach trail brings you directly under it or to the left or right, if there is a fixed anchor at the top of the pitch for rapping etc. It is a route that visitors who have never been to Cannon before will likely be thinking of getting on. I'm not slagging the OP, but why not add a little more info if we can? Nov 26, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I think if finding Reppy's needs a better write-up then good luck finding anything else on Cannon Nov 25, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
For such a popular landmark route, the description and directions could use filling out. Anyone for it? I haven't been on it in 5 or 6 years and don't have it ingrained in my mind except speed climbing the second half to stop the pain or I would myself. "Right of Moby Grape", which nobody does the original start of anymore, doesn't help so much. Beautiful route, you just need the right shoes. Nov 25, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Ah ! THAT's why it seemed easier decades ago in "Robbins Boots"...and I just thought I was getting old. Nov 25, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Warning: this can be extremely painful on your feet. You may want to wear your approach shoes on it. Thick old style board lasted shoes would be perfect Nov 21, 2016
To protect ... many #2's and #3's c4 cams ... # 4 is too big Oct 20, 2016