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*Cannon Cliff

New Hampshire
Warning Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t… DetailsDrop down

Description

Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The climbs are long, the weather is bad, and the rock is exfoliating. Every climber who heads up to do a route on Cannon understands that the undertaking is a considerable one.

This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's many heavily eroded vertical gullies.

Rockfall is a common occurrence on the cliff. The Old Man, a natural outline of a face in the rock and New Hampshire's famous state symbol, fell off the cliff a few years back. An entire pitch, the Whaleback Crack, parted from the face in the 1990's and created a swath of fresh talus at the base.

Gigapixel of Cannon, by Jim Surette

Located in Franconia Notch, the cliff faces east and many a climber has been caught unawares by fast-moving storms coming from the west. Plus, a long talus approach leads to the base and can be heinous if the talus is wet or snow covered.

Do not let the above description dissuade you. Cannon offers the chance for the experienced climber to find alpine serenity on a remote, unforgiving, and challenging wall.

Getting There

All roads lead to Interstate 93 and I-93 runs through Franconia Notch. The big cliff is on the west side of the road. You can't possibly miss it.

The parking area is on the north end of the cliff. It is only possible to access the lot from the southbound side of 93. If you are coming from the south, head past the lot and get off on the next exit (the Tramway exit). From here, reverse directions and head south into the lot.

Winter climbs

For descriptions of Cannon's excellent winter climbs, including the super-classic Black Dike, see Cannon Ice Climbs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

a full-moon lit canon.
[Hide Photo] a full-moon lit canon.
Mike Peloquin and John Bragg below Canon preparing for our first ascent of The Ghost and Vertigo. 1971. Photo Paul Ross
[Hide Photo] Mike Peloquin and John Bragg below Canon preparing for our first ascent of The Ghost and Vertigo. 1971. Photo Paul Ross
Cannon Cliff from Mount Lafayette. The stark Whitney Gilman Ridge can be seen on the left side.
[Hide Photo] Cannon Cliff from Mount Lafayette. The stark Whitney Gilman Ridge can be seen on the left side.
Whitney Gilman with the moon over top. A beautiful day in September.
[Hide Photo] Whitney Gilman with the moon over top. A beautiful day in September.
canon in the summer
[Hide Photo] canon in the summer
This is a topo of the slabs I've been working on. As much has changed since the Old Man incident, any additional beta would be appreciated.
[Hide Photo] This is a topo of the slabs I've been working on. As much has changed since the Old Man incident, any additional beta would be appreciated.
Cannon, and its talus field, from afar.
[Hide Photo] Cannon, and its talus field, from afar.
The "new" man on the mountain... Cromagnum Man? (Photo: Brian Aitken)
[Hide Photo] The "new" man on the mountain... Cromagnum Man? (Photo: Brian Aitken)
Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>
[Hide Photo] Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch
Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>
[Hide Photo] Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch
Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>
[Hide Photo] Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge
Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>
[Hide Photo] Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine
Plymouth, NH
[Hide Comment] Check out the article in Alpinist vol. 21 Oct 12, 2007
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Basilisk has scanned an old guidebook for Cannon. You can download it here. Feb 15, 2009
[Hide Comment] I was told there was a way to descend from the bottom of the cliff face by going to the right of Lakeview and following a trail.

Last Sunday, I was up at Lakeview at about 10AM and it was jam packed and backed up by a slooooooooooow group; looked at Weisner Dike and there was a sllllloooooow group there as well.

Considering there was bound to be a huge clusterf*ck at the last pitch, I figured I'd just walk back down and go somewhere else; there is something that looks like a trail for a few hundred feet ... then nothing. I ended up bushwhacking straight down for 95% of the descent and ended up directly on the left side of the parking.

Anyway; word to the wise: That trail is somewhat overgrown. Oct 13, 2011
Ian Dibbs
Lake Placid
[Hide Comment] The wind blowing down through the Franconia Notch can be strong and cold, a windproof jacket and maybe even a light hat is probably a good idea even in the summer. Jun 22, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] There is an awesome Gigapan of Cannon Cliff taken by Jim Surette on the Museum of the White Mountains website plymouth.edu/museum-of-the-…. It's fantastic how far you can zoom in! This is a great resource when planning out your climb at Cannon.

MotWM's viewing area is 400 pixels tall but gigapan allows up to 800 pixels tall. Here is a direct link to a larger viewer. I tried to get it full screen but it took just enough effort for me to lose interest -- this one's good enough. :)

gigapan.com/gigapans/148041…

So Mark... how many beers do you think it will take to get Jim to gigapan Green's?

NOTE - the above link no longer works. See a comment further below for a link that works. R Hall, Admin, Mar 2026 Apr 25, 2014
Robert111 Chassels
Toronto, ON
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have any info to find the decent. My friend said it was challenging. I haven't been able to find a guidebook and plan on using the info from this site, but there is no decent info. Plan on trying Moby Grape this weekend.. Oct 13, 2015
Daniel Weisman
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I can confirm that there has been significant destruction at the top of the Moby Grape approach trail (bottom of vertigo). Looks like a big chunk came out from under Moonshadow. Lots of trees were knocked down, and the trail was in pretty rough condition from about 50 yards to the top.

In the photos you can see that a big block came out, and there's now a pretty treacherous looking roof/hanging flake directly above the top of the approach trail.

There was also a lot of falling ice today. Wear your helmet and be careful up there!


Some of the destruction


The base of the cliff where the rock came down.


looking up


#longtimelistenerfirsttimecaller Oct 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] The best guide book for cannon is "The Notches: A Rock Climber's Guide to the Western White Mountains of New Hampshire" The new version just came out in February 2017 and you can buy it here. eaglecliffpub.com Jun 5, 2017
m russi
New Haven, CT
[Hide Comment] The previous link to Jim Surette's Gigapan no longer works. Here's a working one, as of July 2017: gigapan.com/gigapans/152938 Jul 18, 2017
Loren Wood
Bloomington, IN
[Hide Comment] Our car was broken into mid-day on 9/5 parked at the trail to the prow. Broke a window and stole a pack. Just an FYI to be vigilant. Sep 6, 2018
[Hide Comment] Buy the Guidebook: eaglecliffpub.com/ Oct 1, 2019
[Hide Comment] Stopping through town to climb and visit friends. Had a good experience working remotely from this coworking space called Notch. Figured I'd mention it for others traveling notchcoworking.com/ Jul 1, 2022
Phil Brown
Saranac Lake, NY
[Hide Comment] How high is Cannon Cliff? I've seen different figures. Is there a reliable source for this?

Response- the main section, eg VMC, “Sam’s”, Moby Grape, , is usually quoted at 1000 vertical ft, but I’ve never seen an actual, scientific determination. I, myself, have actually wondered if the complete main face of Willard ( eg via the 1929 Std Route) and/ or the 1946(. +/-) “Serpents Head” route on Katahdin’s North Basin might be almost as high, or higher. R. Hall, Admin Jul 6, 2023