Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade V
FA: Lots of people through different Variations.
Page Views: 10,487 total · 101/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Mar 4, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start roughly 60 feet or so right of VMC DD, you will want to start below a small right facing corner with a bolt in it, climb past this to the left side of a huge overlap, climb the left side of the overlap to a bolt anchor (5.10)

Move right off the belay and climb a left facing corner to a belay on the right (5.8)

Climb straight up past bolts to a set of two ledges in an amphitheater/alcove (5.10+)

Follow bolts out the left side of the amphitheater to a left facing corner and the belay (5.11)

Move right from the belay following bolts to a vertical wall on the right, climb this to a small niche belay (the original aid line goes straight up from this belay on rivets....dont do it) (5.11)

Climb left on bolts until you are above an overlap, step back under it until you are right of a very thin vertical crack, continue to a stance on the right. (5.8)

On the left will be a short arch leading to a large ledge. (5.11)

climb a right facing corner to flakes moving right to a bolt anchor (5.10)

Finish up on YMC Dike (5.8) to the top.

There are many variations to this route to get to the top, in my opinion "Walk on the Wild Side" is the easiest both to follow and to get off. On the sixth pitch there is a variation that climbs the original A4 crux seam with bolts at 5.11.

Expect that all the pitches will have some sort of cannon trickery commonly experienced on all long cannon free routes.

This was a pretty monumental route to climb for me I first climbed the first five pitches but had to aid through the alcove 5.11 pitch, this summer ill be psyched to come back and get it clean.

Location

center of the big wall, look for the huge arch and the amphitheater hanging up high.

Protection

Double set of cams from small techy to 3", micronuts, quickdraws and extendable draws.

Photos