Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FA: Bradley White, et al FFA: Jeff Previte & Ryan Brooks, 9/14|
|Page Views:||1,750 total · 43/month|
|Shared By:||JeffP on Sep 26, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis is a link up of a couple different routes in the vicinity of The Ghost that avoids the bolt ladders of that route. It is a very direct, natural line with some really classic climbing. The rock quality and protection is a bit lacking in places, particularly the Ghost Roof pitch. If you have done the other big wall classics, this route should definitely be on your list.
P1. Start by climbing the first long, scrappy pitch shared by the Ghost, VMC Direct and a couple others. 200' 5.7
P2. Free climb the obvious right leaning crack to a stance. Continue along the weakness to where the bolt ladder starts. Nest some gear and make a face move or two left into a nice, moderate corner to a belay. Classic, 100' 10+
P3. Now on Heirophant Tower, climb straight up off the belay into the first, obvious arch feature to a bolt. Clip one more bolt and make some very thin (crux) moves to access the next arch/scoop feature. Awesome climbing leads to the base of a corner and, higher, rejoins The Ghost. Step left out of the corner and boldly climb the face above to a roof. A boulder problem deposits you at the anchor atop of one of Cannon's coolest features, The Great Flake. Again, classic, 100' 5.12 or 5.10 A0
P4. Step right and make face moves past thin gear. Ramble your way through fun, interesting rock to a great ledge almost directly above your belayer. 100' 9+?
P5. The Ghost Roof. Flavor Country. Follow a line of weakness up towards the obvious corner through the roofs. This pitch gets an A4 rating not because of difficult aid placements but because of the possibility of your gear dislodging circus animal sized blocks. Free climbing this terrain feels equally, if not more, serious. If the rock turns out to be good, this pitch is PG rated. I would rather not test it. Once is enough 80' 5.11? R
P6-7. Pick your way to the top among slabs, bushes and choss. ~300-400'
All belays consist of bolts with rap rings, the route can be rappelled from anywhere. Two ropes are only needed to get down from the first pitch so if rapping, it might make sense to leave the second cord at the first anchor. All other pitches can be rapped with one rope. A fact that is unique among the Cannon big wall routes is that this route only has 3 protection bolts.
At present, the history of the free climbing on this route is a bit foggy. Jim Shimberg, Doug Madara and Chris Dube did some climbing in this area but don't remember what they did or did not free. The grades are my own guesses from a free ascent Ryan Brooks and I made in September 2014. Conditions were less than ideal that day and several pitches, especially the Ghost Roof, were quite wet. It would be interesting to hear thoughts on grades from subsequent (or past??) ascents.