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Routes in 3. Big Wall

Benedictus/Masterpiece T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dreamin' T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ghost (Clean Aid), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ R
Ghost, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ghostrider T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Hierophant Tower T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Labyrinth Wall Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magical Mystery Tour .(The Girdle /Traverse of Cannon Cliff) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Drop of Water. V T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
VMC Direct Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1015 ft, 7 pitches, Grade V
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent (alt leads).July 1976
Page Views: 1,680 total · 25/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jul 12, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A true directisima.We named this route prior to the first ascent after a saying by a famous Italian climbing Emilio Comici who said the perfect line is where one drop of water will fall... Start between the VMC and the Direct Direct. All pitches except perhaps one and two give superb climbing . No extra bolts please.P1) Start in the dike-type rock just right of the VMC. Free climb for about 90' than aid into a corner on the left. Swing right into another short corner and belay on the right. 160'P2) Continue up the dike both free and aid aiming for a short right leaning arch. Climb the arch and then after three bolts move left about 6' to a belay in the large crack on the VMC. 120'P3) Follow VMC which after 80' goes right. Continue up roof using nuts and pins via a crack which leads a few feet left. Continue over the roof to the large flake.160'P4)Just right of the belay mantle into a crack. Excellent climbing leads through a break in an awkward vertical wall and onto a slab with good horizontal crack right below the big upper overhangs.160'(Site of first ascent bivy).Massive thunder storms all night.. waterfall fell
directly onto the climbers,lots more than One Drop of Water!.P5)Escape by the slab on the left then aid back right for about 20' then straight up the overhangs to a belay above a short jam crack and below twin cracks.100'P6).One pin in the twin cracks brings one to a beautiful slab.Climb the cracks in the slab to ledges.165'P7)Up easy climbing to the summit. 150'

Location

Starts up the dike just right of the VMC and left of the Direct Direct.

Protection

Up to date rack of gear as this was climbed before cams etc

Photos

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According to the Sykes book, this route was freed with one point of aid by Neal Cannon and Alison Osius in 1984. The fifth pitch is the crux at 5.11 X A0.

Jim Mar 23, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
I guess this climb was freed apart from one point of aid in 1984 Aug 1, 2012
chinos  
thanks for posting! have to check it out sometime... Jul 15, 2012
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Never heard if this route has had a second ascent.? Jul 12, 2012