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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area

Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R
Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 774 total, 10/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Van Ryan led the first pitch with intermittent pro below the large gaping A hole of Conn Dike. Found were 70's vintage pitons (5.7) left of a large block to more (5.7) until belay station. Not an exactly secure looking belay on two large blocks sitting there on the ledge. Okay. Loose stones were found and thrown down. I led the 2nd pitch. It started off right and up the dike on crumbly rock towards a pin. A decent right facing inside corner before left higher on traverse left the bugaboo pin not half-way in a crack. What a bad joke. I clipped into it. No picnic doing retreat. Got to lost on Cannon again. First thing a 30lb. loose block got thrown down. Next Van Ryan told me to go back towards the pin and climb down to another traverse ledge. That was okay I got in two #1 stoppers. More loose stones left as I went on left know pro was a joke until pro in the corner held me. I would stop near Van Ryan's belay. Did the awkward step down left onto a too small slope (5-8+). Very small sloping hand holds. lift right foot up to a vertical push off edge (5.8+). Van Ryan watched the controlled jump off from foot edge to get left foot high to hold below a large detached on King's Variation. "I didn't have a heart attack". From the block got lower to Mopy Grape (our goal).
Its been cleaned out of loose stones and has some excellent moves on it also but lacks enough pro.

Location

Directly below the Conn Dike.

Protection

Standard Cannon rack. I'm staying off of it until I improve the protection. Would have been better led with 2 ropes.

Photos

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Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH