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Right Side of the Moby Buttress
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Moby Grape Area
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Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R |
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Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Side of the Moby Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tip Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tip Trip (formerly 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unblocked T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R |
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White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 44.15838, -71.6846 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 120 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Fridman on Sep 3, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Details
Description
The climb starts with some jamming on good rock. Eventually, the rock quality deteriorates significantly to kitty litter and the climbing transitions to chimneying. Eventually you reach the bomber hands crack that you can see from the ground a few inches to the left of the chimney and you follow it until it ends. The tricky crux is around here. After going up a bit more you can exit left to join the first pitch of Moby.
I think that despite the really chossy part in the middle, this climb is still worthwhile because the rest of the pitch is really fun but make sure to bring your A game.
It looks like one could keep going up through two overhanging finger cracks before joining Moby but it might be worth bringing a wire brush to clean the lichen before going for it.
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