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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area

Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R
Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White, 1981
Page Views: 1,562 total, 15/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start by climbing right, next to the start of 'North by Southwest' make awkward moves right under clinging through and up to an inclining inside corner that faces south. Top of corner was desperate (A4+) because of ground fall potential. Think outside the box to get up it (smallest wires are important). Nice rock and I might have missed a better pro placement and gear has improved. It might be (A2) now. Probably can be free climbed but no chance for placing protection while free climbing. Get out the drill?
After corner go easily left under a large ceiling via crumbling rock crack to meet up with North SouthwestÂ’s second pitch belay ledge. Climb up North Southwest and move right to aid (A1) where two cracks intersect to create an X. This X marks the spot and is a landmark seen from below the cliff. The short crack goes onto North Southwest upper corner. Above corner belay. From here go right from North Southwest until you are on the right side of a tremendous house size block (4th class). Climb the far side of this block (gross bushy right facing corner) At the top of the block this climb ended at the belay below the Down East crux slab. I traversed right to down the goat path to climb down Wiessner's Dike. Then did one 75ft rappel to the ground. This climb became named 'Middle East' somehow. Could become a decent free climb directly to North Southwest upper 2nd pitch corner. It will need a lot of preset protection work. It finish right of Down East crux by staying with the crack maybe plausible.

Location

Right of North Southwest and X marks the spot.

Protection

many small wires, large and medium cams or hexes, a few knifeblades and a few small 1" angle pitons.

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