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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area
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Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R |
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Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Side of the Moby Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tip Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tip Trip (formerly 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R |
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White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Paul Ross, Ben and Marion Wintringham, Micheal Hartrick, Al Rubin 1973 |
| Page Views: | 11,289 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Aug 24, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Just left of Vertigo is another excellent route.
Locate the left facing flake of P2 to determine the location of the route.
P1: (5.6) Up a crack and then left (100')
P2: (5.9) This is the crux - go delicately up and left, aiming for a finger crack / layback that ends in a bulge just below the belay ledge. Exciting! (100')
P3: (5.8) Find an excellent flake up and right from the belay - this leads up about 120' to an excellent ledge below an ominous looking cave / overhang.
Although the guidebook has more pitches (5.7 and then easier), we rapped at this point - the chimney above didn't look very inviting.
Not sure if you can rap on a single 60m rope - we needed 2 50s to get down.
Not as much good climbing as Vertigo but well worth doing.
An enjoyable alternative to climbing the upper pitches of Union Jack is to switch to the upper pitches of Claustrophobia at the top of Union Jack's pitch 3.
Locate the left facing flake of P2 to determine the location of the route.
P1: (5.6) Up a crack and then left (100')
P2: (5.9) This is the crux - go delicately up and left, aiming for a finger crack / layback that ends in a bulge just below the belay ledge. Exciting! (100')
P3: (5.8) Find an excellent flake up and right from the belay - this leads up about 120' to an excellent ledge below an ominous looking cave / overhang.
Although the guidebook has more pitches (5.7 and then easier), we rapped at this point - the chimney above didn't look very inviting.
Not sure if you can rap on a single 60m rope - we needed 2 50s to get down.
Not as much good climbing as Vertigo but well worth doing.
An enjoyable alternative to climbing the upper pitches of Union Jack is to switch to the upper pitches of Claustrophobia at the top of Union Jack's pitch 3.
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