Avg: 2.9 from 44 votes
Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area
|Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R|
|Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R|
|White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Paul Ross, Ben and Marion Wintringham, Micheal Hartrick, Al Rubin|
|Page Views:||6,972 total, 56/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Aug 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionJust left of Vertigo is another excellent route.
Locate the left facing flake of P2 to determine the location of the route.
P1: (5.6) Up a crack and then left (100')
P2: (5.9) This is the crux - go delicately up and left, aiming for a finger crack / layback that ends in a bulge just below the belay ledge. Exciting! (100')
P3: (5.8) Find an excellent flake up and right from the belay - this leads up about 120' to an excellent ledge below an ominous looking cave / overhang.
Although the guidebook has more pitches (5.7 and then easier), we rapped at this point - the chimney above didn't look very inviting.
Not sure if you can rap on a single 60m rope - we needed 2 50s to get down.
Not as much good climbing as Vertigo but well worth doing.