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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area

Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R
Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 140 ft
FA: John Strand, later climbed with additional bolts by Tom Coe, Paul Horak, Rusty Reno (July 1989)
Page Views: 4,985 total, 38/month
Shared By: Rusty Reno on Feb 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route has three distinct cruxes. The first twenty feet involve sustained 5.11 micro-edging (see picture) with good protection. After moving left to the third bolt, the route goes up a shallow groove with a difficult mantle to clip the next bolt. (I took a 40 foot fall on this move on the first ascent!) A short traverse right brings the leader to the crux -- a sequence of pure friction moves that seem impossible. (Full disclosure: Paul, Tom, and I gave the crux about 100 tries before Tom finally succeeded.)

This is a genuine test piece -- old school 5.12 thin face with bolts put in on the lead. My old buddies in North Conway have told me that the young Turks who are tearing up the 5.14 sport routes think it is impossible, and they don't believe that this route was ever led. Rest assured gym rats, it was.

admin edit -Apperently there was a previous FA. According to John Strand he climbed this previously with 2 bolts, belayed by Nick Santigrist, and called it 'Yuppies', but he said no one believed him because of the difficulty and he hadn't claimed an FA because he wanted to eliminate the crack finish.

Location

The route climbs past a series of bolts just left of Reppy's Crack

Protection

Bolts. Bring some pro for the easy final section. Shares a rap anchor with Reppy's Crack.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Whatever you say..they must have disappeared due to imagination i guess Jan 5, 2016
Rusty Reno  
 
Sorry, John Strand, there were no bolts on this face when I put up the first ascent. Jan 4, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
According to John Strand he climbed this previously with 2 bolts, belayed by Nick Santigrist, and called it 'Yuppies'. Sep 10, 2015
Wow.

I can't imagine putting this thing up on lead- Bravo. Sep 1, 2014
paulmadry  
 
Can you tell me if I was off/on route?
I went straight up to 1st bolt, over it just to the right , moved to second bolt and then diagonaled up left and then straight up getting to 3rd rusty bolt (why, all other are shiny), and then moved up and slightly left with laybacking some rotten crack to mantle where 4th bolt is and then traversed right to 5th bolt and up in crack.
Or it goes up and right after 3rd bolt , yikes??? Jul 21, 2013
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
I did not lead the route, attempted on top rope but never reached the top.
With some work I am sure it will go.
Just sent Condiscender and this one is on my list, I will definitely be bragging when I lead it Aug 6, 2011
Rusty Reno  
 
Hey Mike, did you do the lead? To be honest, I've never met anyone who has led this route! The crux is, well, cruxy. I'll admit that on the first ascent it took something like 50 tries. The rope doesn't help.
As I recall, some of the North Conway guys at the time declared the route impossible. They obviously didn't know Paul Horak, one of the greatest face climbers of his generation, or Tom Coe, and equally remarkable climber. As I look back, Peppy's Face was extreme for its day. I fell one time climbing up to a high point, and to be perfectly honest, I hadn't fallen on 5.11 face for years up until that point. Sep 1, 2010
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Well done! I felt like Jesus must have felt when he walked on water!
It must be the Turquoise pantaloons. Aug 16, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Michael G- ya just don't get it do you ? I don't know about an R for this , maybe an r instead. Nice NH 11++ Feb 8, 2010
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
Michael, the bolts were put in on lead, which means that putting them in at the harder parts is...well, hard. Sep 29, 2009
Since you put up the FA, and were ok with using bolts, why not just drill another during the R climbing to make it safer? Aug 14, 2009
Rusty Reno  
 
Just a longish run-out -- really only at one spot going up to the mantle described above. There is no danger of ground fall on this route. Mar 31, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
what gives it the R rating?... just scarcity of bolts? Mar 3, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This must be the definition of insecure slab climbing.

Are the bolts still in good shape? Feb 11, 2007