Elevation: 1,045 ft
GPS: 43.5435, -71.1723
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 130,608 total · 1,006/month
Shared By: chinos Garlough on Jun 11, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description

Longstack Precipice (aka Blueberry Ledges) offers some of the tallest climbing in southern New Hampshire. The routes range from 35-170’ and provide amazing views of Knights Pond and Lake Winnipesaukee. Two old pins were found on the cliff providing evidence of previous climbers. Loran Smith also did a dozen adventurous climbs on nuts and hexes in 1978-1979 while attending the local Kingswood Regional High School. The cliff had a few new lines pop up around 2008, but major development started in 2011. A standard rack to a #3 or #4 will get you up all the climbs.

Getting There

In the summer the first brown gate on the left for Knights Pond Conservation area will be open. Drive to the end and park in the parking lot (in the winter you'll have to walk it). As of fall 2022 the road was fine for a vehicle with 6" of clearance. Once at the summer parking lot, do NOT walk down the logging road blocked by a gate; but take a climber's path that starts between two of the boulders that mark the perimeter of the parking.  Follow this 2 minutes to the an ATV/logging road. Follow this 5-6 min. to the well-cairned climber's approach path which leaves the ATV/Logging road on the left; then, in about 50-60 yds, leads steeply up to the cliff arriving about in the middle of Indigenous Wall. Total approach time 15-20 min.

Old approach (do not use): From Route 28 in Alton take Rines Road. Drive down Rines Road for 1.1 miles until the road comes to a fork and turns to dirt. Stay left at the fork and follow the dirt road for roughly a mile. You'll pass two gates on the left. After the second gate (sand pit) there will be a pull off on the left and another small sand pit with a shooting range just beyond it. Park here or any of the other pull offs. Walk behind the shooting range and follow the logging road and cairns to a climbers trail which will lead you to the base of the cliff. There are many ways to approach the cliff depending on where you park. The approach is approx. 20-30 minutes.

2019 Update to "Old approach": Access via the shooting range is reported to be tenuous/off limits. This is not confirmed, but for the sake of maintaining good relationships, it should be avoided when at all possible until it is sorted out. The walk in from the gate at Knights pond is identical, and if the gate is open, it's much shorter.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Longstack Precipice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 110
Coyote Rain
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 44
Tardis
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Toltec Dream
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Islands
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Raven Song
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Layback Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
The Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Strychnine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Trifecta
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Riptide
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Locals Only
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Velvet Underground
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Winter Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Still Gettin' Booty
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Wonderland
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coyote Rain 4. Wonderland Wall
 110
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tardis 2. Indigenous Wall
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Toltec Dream 2. Indigenous Wall
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Islands 2. Indigenous Wall
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Raven Song 2. Indigenous Wall
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Layback Route 3. The Big Wall
 40
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Arete 3. The Big Wall
 62
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Strychnine 2. Indigenous Wall
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Trifecta 4. Wonderland Wall
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Riptide 3. The Big Wall
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Locals Only 3. The Big Wall
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Velvet Underground 2. Indigenous Wall
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Winter Classic 4. Wonderland Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Still Gettin' Booty 2. Indigenous Wall
 28
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Wonderland 4. Wonderland Wall
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Longstack Precipice »

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