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Areas in Longstack Precipice

1. Tombstone Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
2. Indigenous Wall 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
3. The Big Wall 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 17
4. Wonderland Wall 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Description

Longstack Precipice (aka Blueberry Ledges) offers some of the tallest climbing in southern New Hampshire. The routes range from 35-170’ and provide amazing views of Knights Pond and Lake Winnipesaukee. Two old pins were found on the cliff providing evidence of previous climbers. Loran Smith also did a dozen adventurous climbs on nuts and hexes in 1978-1979 while attending the local Kingswood Regional High School. The cliff had a few new lines pop up around 2008, but major development started in 2011. A standard rack to a #3 or #4 will get you up all the climbs.

Getting There

From route 28 in Alton take Rines Road. Drive down Rines Road for 1.1 miles until the road comes to a fork and turns to dirt. Stay left at the fork and follow the dirt road for roughly a mile. You will pass two gates on the left. After the second gate (sand pit) there will be a pull off on the left and another small sand pit with a shooting range just beyond it. Park here or any of the other pull offs. Walk behind the shooting range and follow the logging road and cairns to a climbers trail which will lead you to the base of the cliff. There are many ways to approach the cliff depending on where you park. The approach is approx. 20-30 minutes.

Option 2: in the summer the first brown gate on the left for Knights Pond Conservation area will be open. Drive to the end and park in the parking lot. Walk right through a break in the wall on an atv trail and follow it right to the main logging road and approach trail.

2018 Update to "Option2" : Logging activity is obvious; the parking is intact.  It is at the very end of the road, as far as you can drive.  Do NOT walk down the logging road blocked by a gate; but take a climber's path that starts between two of the boulders that mark the perimeter of the parking.  Follow this 2 minutes to the above-mentioned ATV/logging road. Follow this 5-6 min. to the well-cairned climber's approach path which leaves the ATV/Logging road on the left; then, in about 50-60 yds,  leads steeply up to the cliff arriving about in the middle of Indigenous Wall .  Total time 15-20 min.  R Hall, NH Admin July 2018.

69 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Longstack Precipice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 68
Coyote Rain
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Tardis
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Toltec Dream
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Islands
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Raven Song
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Layback Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
The Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Strychnine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Trifecta
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Winter Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Still Gettin' Booty
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Rampage
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 13
Wonderland
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
She's Out of Reach
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Gentle Violence
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coyote Rain 4. Wonderland Wall
 68
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tardis 2. Indigenous Wall
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Toltec Dream 2. Indigenous Wall
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Islands 2. Indigenous Wall
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Raven Song 2. Indigenous Wall
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Layback Route 3. The Big Wall
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Arete 3. The Big Wall
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Strychnine 2. Indigenous Wall
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Trifecta 4. Wonderland Wall
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Winter Classic 4. Wonderland Wall
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Still Gettin' Booty 2. Indigenous Wall
 23
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rampage 3. The Big Wall
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Wonderland 4. Wonderland Wall
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
She's Out of Reach 3. The Big Wall
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Gentle Violence 4. Wonderland Wall
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Longstack Precipice »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Well the secrets out, this is the best cliff in southern New Hampshire! Jun 12, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Thanks for the work guys. Nice to see quinny's name out there. Jun 13, 2012
chinos  
Hell yeah! Hope to see you out there again Jun 13, 2012
Edge
R.I.P.
Edge   R.I.P.
Jon, nice work posting all of these routes. You guys should also be commended for all of the trail work and for reinvigorating this semi-forgotten crag! Like Joshua said, this may be the premier intermediate level cliff in southern NH. Jun 13, 2012
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
From new routes to trail work, thats what the chinos mountain club is all about. Jun 13, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I just went through all the descriptions and photos to approve them and i must give you guys my thanks for organizing such a large area in an easy to follow, understandable way. Splitting it up in sections is key and it saves me work in the long run. keep up the good work guys! Jun 14, 2012
chinos  
Thanks Lee! I have spent a lot of time working on my book for the area. It makes it fast and easy to post on MP! I'm glad it helps you out, and more importantly it is easy to follow. Hope to see you in the area sometime... Jun 15, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Do you plan on publishing a book for the New Durham Area? Jun 15, 2012
chinos  
I'm trying to finish up and get some copies made up sometime next month. I can contact you when there done if you are interested. Jun 18, 2012
A few notes on Longstack.

The area is still cleaning up, don't be alarmed by sandy or dirty patches. Every route is star worthy, there isn't a bad line here.

This area is not typical of other New Hampshire crags. The climbing is technical, cruxes are short. Expect shallow roofs, mantle problems, friction sequences, and some spice on every route (the gear isn't always where you want it). You must be a well versed climber to be successful here. Cams tend to be better than stoppers. Most climbs are a mix of bolts and gear.

You can get up and down almost everything with a 60 M rope. It is possible to walk off to either side. If walking off is your intent, the walk off to climber's left is preferable and it is best to scope this out before leaving the ground as the slight gulley isn't marked or easily recognized from the top.

Developing this crag was an extensive effort. Props to the Chinos crew, thank you for your good routes and awesome trail work.

P.S., if you're climbing at Longstack and run into a dude drinking a tall-boy at 8 a.m., you've just met the infamous Jon Garlough, first ascentionist (and sandbagger) extraordinaire! Jun 23, 2012
I predict Longstack will become VERY popular in time.

The routes are really fun and the place, in many ways, reminds me of the Gunks!

Those guys worked real hard to develop this place! Nov 4, 2012
By climbing the more moderate Chenoo, it is possible to access the second pitch of all the routes on the Central Wall where the climbing is fun, exposed, and easier than the pitches turning the roof that comprises the first pitch of all the Central Wall long routes.

As all routes have fixed top and midpoint anchors, simply rap to climber's right, climb up and repeat. The process is fairly quick and can be completed with 1 60 M rope and allows for a good deal of climbing. Jan 8, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Nice new names Jon, Loran was right they sound a lot better Feb 24, 2013
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
Mad props to the developers. We were out there today (no climbing, someone forgot their harness) and I was quite impressed by the well-marked trail, nice trail work, etc. Navigation is easy, if you're at all confused, just wander around the shooting range until you see a bunch of cairns (rock piles) and follow those.

Anyone know who owns the land out there? Apr 28, 2013
chinos  
the land is open to recreation use and the land owner was happy with the respect climbers had for the land. keep it clean and it will stay open! May 11, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Just a little note if you are planning to come here and it rained the night before or that morning don't be worried, I was out there yesterday and it stopped raining at 8:00am and everything was dry at 10:00am. It drys very quickly. May 13, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Someone left a pair of sneakers on top of Cyote Rain if you are looking for them I forgot to grab them so they are still there Jul 25, 2013
We met Joshua out there this weekend. Thanks so much for showing/ telling us which routes were which! Longstack is so good that we spent both days there, and there is still plenty to do! Thanks to everyone for the development! If you climb ~5.10, this is a great place to go! Two notes: 1) you may want to bring a wire brush to clean some of the routes, as some are dirty/ lichen-y; 2) it was raining on the way to the cliff on Saturday morning, but everything was pretty dry about an hour after it stopped, so I can confirm that it dries VERY quickly! Aug 5, 2013
Jay LeSage
Sandown, NH
Jay LeSage   Sandown, NH
Has anyone tried to access the cliff from the trails on the northeast via Alpine Meadows Rd. Is it worth Trying? Gated? access issues of any kind? Oct 7, 2013
chinos  
Jay, Alpine Meadows is a private community and it is best to not stir the pot by parking in there. Please park in the areas i have listed in the longstack write up.
Thanks Oct 7, 2013
The anchor on Coyote Rain's first pitch is weathered. It appears animals have been chewing the spectra cordelettes. There is no tail left. I had no webbing or cord to replace unfortunately. Oct 13, 2014
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
This is such a great addition to New Hampshire climbing. Much respect to those who developed the area, placed bolts and added rap anchors. If there is anything we can do to assist with the upkeep of the area - let us know. Apr 25, 2015
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Would any of the routes here be suitable for setting up a top rope? I will be vacationing there in a few weeks on Rust Pond and am interested in checking it out, but without a climbing partner who can belay for lead, my only option is to top rope. Aug 3, 2015
If you want more info on the early history of climbing at "Blueberry Ledges", Jeb Bradley might have some information. He introduced me to the area.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeb_B… Feb 2, 2016
I also am curious if you can top rope this area. I am in a similar situation to Matt. Jul 18, 2016
Jason Denver
Wakefield
Jason Denver   Wakefield
This is not an easy place to top rope. At all. Devils den is nearby and is much better suited to that. Jul 19, 2016
Marc B  
As of late August 2017, the shooting range parking lot is closed to the public with no trespassing signs. Use the Knight's Pond conservation area if open, otherwise park on a pulloff.

If you park at Knight's Pond, you can go to the very end of the parking area to a small trail down the embankment to the right. Take a left on the ATV road, then another left after passing a small boulder on the left. This will bring you to Indigenous wall. Oct 4, 2017
Nick Woodman
Saco, ME
Nick Woodman   Saco, ME
When the above description says 'walk behind the shooting range,' it means stick to the left as you walk through. There's two roads out of this area, both are logging. One leads south through a progressive series of 'ranges' and eventually puts you on top of Longstack, and the other one exits to the Northeast, bringing you to a washed out road and eventually a climbers trail that takes you to the base. May 8, 2018
Ethan George
Boston, MA
Ethan George   Boston, MA
I cut out and relaced old rap anchors on Tardis, and a few other routes on the left side of the cliff. Purple webbing with white stitch and black webbing with blue stitch are new as of last weekend. Planning to do more next time I’m out. Lots of weathered tat at the top. Jul 25, 2018
chinos  
Thanks Ethan for your effort to keep things safe! Jul 26, 2018

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