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Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall

Blackout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cleaning up the Scraps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Coyote Rain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evening Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Violence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gold Lion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mighty Quinn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rona's Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route Vultures, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Stack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Speck In My Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trifecta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weston's Syrup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winter Classic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Loran Smith & Joshua Corbett July 26, 2012
Page Views: 5,774 total, 89/month
Shared By: EDGE on Jul 26, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Takes a surprisingly easy line directly through the center of the large roof feature on the far right of the cliff. Should become a popular beginner route as it is now thoroughly cleaned, has great protection, and exciting moves on big holds.

P1: From the beech tree at the start of Rona's Roof, face climb straight up (fixed pin on left) then passing climbers right of a small tree, then directly up to a stance under the large roof. Place pro and fire over the roof on huge holds to an easy, broken slab. Pine tree belay with fixed rap station. 70', 5.6

P2: Continue straight up the broken slab to a shared pine tree anchor atop Trifecta. 50', 5.5

Location

Starts as for Rona's Roof, on a sloping ledge behind a beech tree. Rap the route in two raps from large trees equipped with cord and quick links.

Protection

Trad rack to 2 1/2" cams; one fixed pin to protect the start. Fixed tree anchors on both pitches. Great gear all the way.
Spencer Nowak
Dover, NH
 
Spencer Nowak   Dover, NH
 
The rap tree on top is not long for this world, it was visibly swaying as my partner rapped off it and the trunk is full of woodpecker holes. May 1, 2017
chinos
  5.6
chinos  
  5.6
Nice Chris! Great first trad lead! Nov 15, 2014
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
 
Fantastic climb, my first trad lead climb. Easy climbing separated by a committing pull over the ledge. Beautiful views from the tree anchors. A green Black Diamond cam placed in the first horizontal crack above the lip helped to ease the fear of taking a fall onto the ledge beneath the overhang.

Hats off to those who developed this area... the hard work is quite evident. Oct 14, 2014
Dan Felix
  5.6
Dan Felix  
  5.6
I think the roof move definitely favors taller people. I'm 6'3" and have no issues with it, my 5'3" girlfriend definitely struggles at the roof.

Awesome route, did both pitches today, first time I was on it I only did the first pitch. Jul 21, 2013
Mark NH
03053
5.8-
Mark NH   03053
5.8-
Really enjoyed the climb - but thought the roof moves were much harder than 5.6. Maybe it just exploits an old guys weakness. And maybe its a "how tall you are" thing too. I'd say 5.8- Jul 14, 2013
I thought it was named for a porn star? Apr 5, 2013
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
Awesome route. It just might be:) Sep 24, 2012
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.6
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.6
I think so I have done a lot of 5.6 pitches and I can't think of a better one. Sep 24, 2012
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
We climbed this again the other night by headlamp under the crescent moon and full compliment of stars, and this thought came up in conversation: Is this the best single pitch of 5.6 in NH? Sep 24, 2012
Jason Denver  
 
This is a must do at this cliff. Absolutely fantastic for the grade. Sep 22, 2012
tommyguns  
 
This is an awesome route and great for those new to leading. The views are unreal! Sep 12, 2012
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Although listed as two pitches, this climbs best as one pitch, extending slings as needed. A 70M rope, thrown directly over the route, will just get you to the ground. Alternatively, the listed first pitch belay tree is fully equipped with a quadrupled runner and quick links. Aug 8, 2012
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Named for the howling of coyotes and the brief storm prior to the first ascent. The rap off was done in a steady rain. Jul 26, 2012