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Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall

Blackout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cleaning up the Scraps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Coyote Rain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evening Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Violence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gold Lion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mighty Quinn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rona's Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route Vultures, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Stack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Speck In My Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trifecta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weston's Syrup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winter Classic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Joshua Corbett & Loran Smith
Page Views: 925 total · 16/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 8, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This route is a tribute to Loran Smith. Loran cleaned the route but was unable to climb it before moving west to Colorado. The route was set up by Garlough and Corbett the following day and climbed.

Loran spent his early years taking chances and climbing the dirty walls of Longstack on nuts and hexes. His love for the cliff was reignited in 2010 and he added many great lines at Longstack. He will be greatly missed by all the members of the Chinos Mountain Club.

This route starts to the left of Gentle Violence.

P1: Climb the short unprotected slab to a ledge (bolt). Follow flakes to a overlap (bolt) and pull over on the left edge to a short slab (bolt). Pull the small roof on big holds and continue up right of the pine tree to another small roof (bolt). Fire the crux on thin holds and continue straight up to a tree ledge with a three bolt anchor. 100'

P2: Climb straight up off the anchor on easy terrain to the trees on top. 50'

P2 Variation: Move right from the anchor and follow a clean streak to the top. 50'

Location

Between Weston's Syrup and Gentle Violence

Protection

Bolts, standard rack, 3 bolt anchor

Photos

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