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Elevation: 525 ft 160 m
GPS: 43.4345, -71.169
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: chinos Garlough on May 22, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

The New Durham Area consists of multiple crags Mount Molly, Rand Mountain, Devils Den, Rines Hill, Longstack, and Pleasant Valley all located on the east side of Lake Winnipesaukee. The town lines of New Durham, Alton, and Wolfeboro run through the area of the crags. The town of Wolfeboro provides stores and many great places to eat right on the lake. Camping areas can be found nearby, but you can also camp out off the class 6 road past Longstack or out by Devils Den. Please do not camp out in the parking areas for the crags. Also respect the area and pick up your trash and trash others have left behind. The ATV club has trash cans at the shooting range near Longstack. Mountain Bikes are a great way to reach many of the areas if you don't want to drive down the class 6 dirt roads.

The area had been climbed for years, but there was a lack of leadable routes in the area. In 2008, a group of locals got tired of top roping these great climbs and started scrubbing and developing the area. This crew is known as the Chinos (Chinos Mountain Club). It was a massive effort to establish the trails and routes. Since then, many of the members have moved on to Colorado and North Conway.

All of the crags offer various styles of climbing. Most of these areas offer great views of the surrounding mountains, lake Winni, and Merrymeeting lake. Longstack is one of the fastest drying cliffs in NH and can be climbed within a couple hours after rain.

Ice routes can also be found on the slabs at Devils Den, The lower area at Mount Molly, and the main ice area, Pleasant Valley.

There is now a guidebook for the area "The Chinos Guide: Climbing in the New Durham Area", written by a local Jonathan Garlough. This guidebook can be found at International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway, Stay Tuned in Wolfeboro, Chessler Books online, and hopefully more areas soon...

Getting There Suggest change

Devils Den, Mount Molly, Rines Hill, and Longstack are all reached from route 28 in Alton near the Wolfeboro town line. Rand Mountain is located off of Middleton Road in New Durham.

247 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 124
Coyote Rain
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Tardis
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
Toltec Dream
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Layback Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
The Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Strychnine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
Trifecta
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
The Great White Roof
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Velvet Underground
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Winter Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 32
Still Gettin' Booty
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Go-Go Gadget Arm
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Knights in White Spandex
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Hysteria
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
Devil Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coyote Rain Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 124
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tardis Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Toltec Dream Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 41
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Layback Route Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 42
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Arete Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 68
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Strychnine Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Trifecta Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Great White Roof Rand Mountain
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Velvet Underground Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Winter Classic Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Still Gettin' Booty Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 32
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Go-Go Gadget Arm Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Knights in White Spandex Rand Mountain
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hysteria Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Devil Man Devil's Den > Outback Wall
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) »

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