Mountain Project Logo

New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) Rock Climbing


Areas in New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)

Devil's Den 42 / 17 / 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 66
Longstack Precipice 67 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 68
Mt. Molly 25 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Pleasant Valley 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 20
Rand Mountain 15 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Rines Hill 17 / 4 / 4 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
Elevation: 525 ft
GPS: 43.435, -71.169 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 77,343 total, 971/month
Shared By: chinos on May 22, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

The New Durham Area consists of multiple crags Mount Molly, Rand Mountain, Devils Den, Rines Hill, Longstack, and Pleasant Valley all located on the east side of Lake Winnipesaukee. The town lines of New Durham, Alton, and Wolfeboro run through the area of the crags. The town of Wolfeboro provides stores and many great places to eat right on the lake. Camping areas can be found nearby, but you can also camp out off the class 6 road past Longstack or out by Devils Den. Please do not camp out in the parking areas for the crags. Also respect the area and pick up your trash and trash others have left behind. The ATV club has trash cans at the shooting range near Longstack. Mountain Bikes are a great way to reach many of the areas if you don't want to drive down the class 6 dirt roads.

The area had been climbed for years, but there was a lack of leadable routes in the area. In 2008, a group of locals got tired of top roping these great climbs and started scrubbing and developing the area. This crew is known as the Chinos (Chinos Mountain Club). It was a massive effort to establish the trails and routes. Since then, many of the members have moved on to Colorado and North Conway.

All of the crags offer various styles of climbing. Most of these areas offer great views of the surrounding mountains, lake Winni, and Merrymeeting lake. Longstack is one of the fastest drying cliffs in NH and can be climbed within a couple hours after rain.

Ice routes can also be found on the slabs at Devils Den, The lower area at Mount Molly, and the main ice area, Pleasant Valley.

There is now a guidebook for the area "The Chinos Guide: Climbing in the New Durham Area", written by a local Jonathan Garlough. This guidebook can be found at International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway, Stay Tuned in Wolfeboro, Chessler Books online, and hopefully more areas soon...

Getting There

Devils Den, Mount Molly, Rines Hill, and Longstack are all reached from route 28 in Alton near the Wolfeboro town line. Rand Mountain is located off of Middleton Road in New Durham.

246 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-
Polar Circus
Ice
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Coyote Rain
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toltec Dream
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Layback Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellraiser
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in the Roof
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strychnine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trifecta
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winter Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Go-Go Gadget Arm
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hysteria
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
She's Out of Reach
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gentle Violence
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Polar Circus Pleasant Valley > Polar Circus Area WI5- Ice
Coyote Rain Longstack Precipice > 4. Wonderland Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Toltec Dream Longstack Precipice > 2. Indigenous Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Layback Route Longstack Precipice > 3. The Big Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Arete Longstack Precipice > 3. The Big Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hellraiser Devil's Den > Slab Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hole in the Roof Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Strychnine Longstack Precipice > 2. Indigenous Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Trifecta Longstack Precipice > 4. Wonderland Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Winter Classic Longstack Precipice > 4. Wonderland Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Go-Go Gadget Arm Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hysteria Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
She's Out of Reach Longstack Precipice > 3. The Big Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Gentle Violence Longstack Precipice > 4. Wonderland Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Devil Man Devil's Den > Outback Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Betsy Mailloux
Rochester, New Hampshire
Betsy Mailloux   Rochester, New Hampshire
Went to the Devils Den years ago with friends. Great view on top of cave! Aug 4, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Super. Thanks. Aug 20, 2013
chinos  
i will try to get something together for it mark Aug 20, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Anyone up for writing a quick overview for the area? Put it in as a comment here and Jay, Lee or I can move it into the body and assign it to you. Aug 20, 2013
chinos  
Guidebooks are for sale at IME in north conway, indoor ascents in dover, and chessler books online! Jun 23, 2013
Joshua Corbett, you mentioned a "small guide book for the locals". I'm heading into the area this weekend and was wondering if you would be able to send me a copy of this guide. Thanks! Jun 3, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
I have been there and I didn't think it was worth climbing so I have never been back. All the other cliffs are so much better. Sep 22, 2012
The climbs on top of Copplecrown are not described anywhere. From my knowledge the anchors have been there for some time now and it is unclear who put them there and what has/hasn't been done. Some of the "chinos" crew has been out there and done some climbs. There is little to no history on the place and if you climb something it would be helpfull to the community to make a note of it on this site. Thanks Sep 22, 2012
Hey, question for you! At the end of Copple Crown rd, there's a hiking trail that leads up a 'mountain', which has some top anchors.. I saw these before I got into climbing, and I don't live in the area, but I was wondering if this was the area you're talking about on this page? Sep 22, 2012
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
the gates are open. road to the den is ok. climb on!! Apr 24, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Awesome thanks man! Jun 15, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Matt,there is no real guide book but jon has made a small one for the locals.If your planing to come down let me know i know where 95% of the routes are. Jun 14, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Is there any guide book for this area? Jun 14, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I've reorganized the New Durham pages, which included breaking Devil's Den into separate areas.

For the description of each of the cliffs, I've added "tba" (to be added). If you'd like to add a description for the cliffs, that would be great. Just post the description as a comment, and I'll integrate it into the page and reassign the page to you. May 24, 2011
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
went to the den on tuesday and the gates are open and the road is passable. May 24, 2011

More About New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) (612)

Most Popular · Newest