Elevation: 525 ft
GPS: 43.435, -71.169 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 188,231 total · 1,696/month
Shared By: chinos on May 22, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The New Durham Area consists of multiple crags Mount Molly, Rand Mountain, Devils Den, Rines Hill, Longstack, and Pleasant Valley all located on the east side of Lake Winnipesaukee. The town lines of New Durham, Alton, and Wolfeboro run through the area of the crags. The town of Wolfeboro provides stores and many great places to eat right on the lake. Camping areas can be found nearby, but you can also camp out off the class 6 road past Longstack or out by Devils Den. Please do not camp out in the parking areas for the crags. Also respect the area and pick up your trash and trash others have left behind. The ATV club has trash cans at the shooting range near Longstack. Mountain Bikes are a great way to reach many of the areas if you don't want to drive down the class 6 dirt roads.

The area had been climbed for years, but there was a lack of leadable routes in the area. In 2008, a group of locals got tired of top roping these great climbs and started scrubbing and developing the area. This crew is known as the Chinos (Chinos Mountain Club). It was a massive effort to establish the trails and routes. Since then, many of the members have moved on to Colorado and North Conway.

All of the crags offer various styles of climbing. Most of these areas offer great views of the surrounding mountains, lake Winni, and Merrymeeting lake. Longstack is one of the fastest drying cliffs in NH and can be climbed within a couple hours after rain.

Ice routes can also be found on the slabs at Devils Den, The lower area at Mount Molly, and the main ice area, Pleasant Valley.

There is now a guidebook for the area "The Chinos Guide: Climbing in the New Durham Area", written by a local Jonathan Garlough. This guidebook can be found at International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway, Stay Tuned in Wolfeboro, Chessler Books online, and hopefully more areas soon...

Getting There

Devils Den, Mount Molly, Rines Hill, and Longstack are all reached from route 28 in Alton near the Wolfeboro town line. Rand Mountain is located off of Middleton Road in New Durham.

255 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-
 4
Polar Circus
Ice
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 79
Coyote Rain
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Tardis
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Toltec Dream
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Layback Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
The Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Strychnine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Trifecta
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Riptide
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Locals Only
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Velvet Underground
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Winter Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Still Gettin' Booty
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Go-Go Gadget Arm
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
Devil Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Polar Circus Pleasant Valley > Polar Circus Area
 4
WI5- Ice
Coyote Rain Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 79
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tardis Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Toltec Dream Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Layback Route Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 30
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Arete Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 42
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Strychnine Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Trifecta Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Riptide Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Locals Only Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Velvet Underground Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Winter Classic Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Still Gettin' Booty Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 26
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Go-Go Gadget Arm Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Devil Man Devil's Den > Outback Wall
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) »

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