Elevation: 525 ft
GPS: 43.4345, -71.169
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 312,843 total · 2,197/month
Shared By: chinos Garlough on May 22, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description

The New Durham Area consists of multiple crags Mount Molly, Rand Mountain, Devils Den, Rines Hill, Longstack, and Pleasant Valley all located on the east side of Lake Winnipesaukee. The town lines of New Durham, Alton, and Wolfeboro run through the area of the crags. The town of Wolfeboro provides stores and many great places to eat right on the lake. Camping areas can be found nearby, but you can also camp out off the class 6 road past Longstack or out by Devils Den. Please do not camp out in the parking areas for the crags. Also respect the area and pick up your trash and trash others have left behind. The ATV club has trash cans at the shooting range near Longstack. Mountain Bikes are a great way to reach many of the areas if you don't want to drive down the class 6 dirt roads.

The area had been climbed for years, but there was a lack of leadable routes in the area. In 2008, a group of locals got tired of top roping these great climbs and started scrubbing and developing the area. This crew is known as the Chinos (Chinos Mountain Club). It was a massive effort to establish the trails and routes. Since then, many of the members have moved on to Colorado and North Conway.

All of the crags offer various styles of climbing. Most of these areas offer great views of the surrounding mountains, lake Winni, and Merrymeeting lake. Longstack is one of the fastest drying cliffs in NH and can be climbed within a couple hours after rain.

Ice routes can also be found on the slabs at Devils Den, The lower area at Mount Molly, and the main ice area, Pleasant Valley.

There is now a guidebook for the area "The Chinos Guide: Climbing in the New Durham Area", written by a local Jonathan Garlough. This guidebook can be found at International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway, Stay Tuned in Wolfeboro, Chessler Books online, and hopefully more areas soon...

Getting There

Devils Den, Mount Molly, Rines Hill, and Longstack are all reached from route 28 in Alton near the Wolfeboro town line. Rand Mountain is located off of Middleton Road in New Durham.

243 Total Climbs

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Location: New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 110
Coyote Rain
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 44
Tardis
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Toltec Dream
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Islands
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Casual Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Layback Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
The Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Strychnine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Trifecta
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Riptide
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Locals Only
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Velvet Underground
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Winter Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Still Gettin' Booty
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Go-Go Gadget Arm
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coyote Rain Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 110
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tardis Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Toltec Dream Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Islands Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Casual Crack Rines Hill
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Layback Route Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 40
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Arete Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 62
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Strychnine Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Trifecta Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Riptide Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Locals Only Longstack Preci… > 3. The Big Wall
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Velvet Underground Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Winter Classic Longstack Preci… > 4. Wonderland Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Still Gettin' Booty Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall
 28
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Go-Go Gadget Arm Devil's Den > Land of Overhangs
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.) »

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