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Routes in 3. The Big Wall

Adventure Punks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chenoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Graceful Tiers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Happy Ending T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Good Day to Die T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locals Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermind The Bollocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
P.I. Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porno Poison Ivy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 R
Rampage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Out of Reach T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Lichen Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 3,204 total · 47/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

The Arete is a second pitch variation to Layback Route. Climb the first pitch of Layback Route to the pin anchor. Continue up the second and move left under the roof. Take the open book corner with a hand crack to a stance ledge. Move right onto the super exposed arĂȘte plugging gear in horizontals. Pull the lip to a big ledge with a bolt anchor.

Location

Second Pitch variation on Layback Route

Protection

Bring A Rack to #3
Marc B  
One of the anchors below P3 is spinning. I hand tightened it, but if someone has a wrench they should bring it with them and give the anchors a good tightening. Oct 8, 2017
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
DustinH, regarding hitting the ground from the 2nd pitch with a 60: that's why we put in gear... (Sorry, couldn't resist. We know what you mean, it was just the way you worded it; I just couldn't resist.) Mar 29, 2017
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
 
Pitch 2 has to be in the running for one of the best pitches on the cliff.

If you protect the start of the traverse be wary of rope drag. Bring a #3 BD cam for the exit of the traverse. Aug 2, 2015
Alexander Smith
Boston Area
  5.8
Alexander Smith   Boston Area
  5.8
5.9? Really? Have you ever climbed a conway 5.9? I didn't think this deserved a 5.8+ rating. I would say just a 5.8 sorry guys :) Oct 26, 2014
DustinH
Las Vegas
DustinH   Las Vegas
Great route. You can easily hit the ground with a single 60m from the top of the second pitch. Jul 12, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
The second pitch is one of the best pitches of trad I've ever done. Amazing climbing, very good protection (albeit thoughtful under the roof. Think about ropedrag and your follower), committing moves, exposure, beautiful views on an aesthetic route... does it get better?

The first pitch (shared with Layback Route) was also quite fun, and the 5.8 3rd pitch was very good too. Very good protection throughout. Get on it!

You can walk off right from the top of the 3rd pitch. Apr 20, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.9
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.9
the 1st pitch is a bit less classic but the money pitch is MONEY! great classic trad climbing! big roof, big corner, splitter cracks, exposure and an amazing view... i really want to come back and shoot photos of it :) Jul 5, 2012