Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 3,596 total · 45/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

38 Opinions

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The Arete is a second pitch variation to Layback Route. Climb the first pitch of Layback Route to the pin anchor. Continue up the second and move left under the roof. Take the open book corner with a hand crack to a stance ledge. Move right onto the super exposed arĂȘte plugging gear in horizontals. Pull the lip to a big ledge with a bolt anchor.


Second Pitch variation on Layback Route


Bring A Rack to #3
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
the 1st pitch is a bit less classic but the money pitch is MONEY! great classic trad climbing! big roof, big corner, splitter cracks, exposure and an amazing view... i really want to come back and shoot photos of it :) Jul 5, 2012
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
The second pitch is one of the best pitches of trad I've ever done. Amazing climbing, very good protection (albeit thoughtful under the roof. Think about ropedrag and your follower), committing moves, exposure, beautiful views on an aesthetic route... does it get better?

The first pitch (shared with Layback Route) was also quite fun, and the 5.8 3rd pitch was very good too. Very good protection throughout. Get on it!

You can walk off right from the top of the 3rd pitch. Apr 20, 2014
Las Vegas
DustinH   Las Vegas
Great route. You can easily hit the ground with a single 60m from the top of the second pitch. Jul 12, 2014
Alexander Smith
Boston Area
Alexander Smith   Boston Area
5.9? Really? Have you ever climbed a conway 5.9? I didn't think this deserved a 5.8+ rating. I would say just a 5.8 sorry guys :) Oct 26, 2014
Morro Bay, CA
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
Pitch 2 has to be in the running for one of the best pitches on the cliff.

If you protect the start of the traverse be wary of rope drag. Bring a #3 BD cam for the exit of the traverse. Aug 2, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
DustinH, regarding hitting the ground from the 2nd pitch with a 60: that's why we put in gear... (Sorry, couldn't resist. We know what you mean, it was just the way you worded it; I just couldn't resist.) Mar 29, 2017
Marc B
Marc B  
One of the anchors below P3 is spinning. I hand tightened it, but if someone has a wrench they should bring it with them and give the anchors a good tightening. Oct 8, 2017