Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 3. The Big Wall

Adventure Punks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chenoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Graceful Tiers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Happy Ending T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Good Day to Die T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locals Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermind The Bollocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
P.I. Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porno Poison Ivy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 R
Rampage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Out of Reach T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Lichen Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Tom Zimmerman
Page Views: 757 total, 12/month
Shared By: chinos on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Rampage is a variation finish to Locals Only. It climbs direct out the large roof at the top of the cliff making for excellent exposure and views.

Climb Locals Only to the final bolt under the roof. Continue straight up under the roof and gain a horizontal and make a long clip to the fixed chain on the lip of the roof. Fire out the roof on big holds and finish at the Locals Only anchor.

Location

Locals Only, Central Wall

Protection

standard rack to 2", bolts, bolt anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Jason Denver  
 
I can't exactly remember the moves, but maybe a heel-toe cam under the roof to reach out statically? I don't remember myself or my shorter follower having to dyno. The hardest thing seemed to be finding the best holds over the top for your hands and your feet having nothing to step on while you pull over the roof itself. I agree John, harder than .10b should feel. It's burly. Apr 11, 2015
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.11-
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.11-
This felt really sandbagged for the guidebook grade of 5.10b!

I tried hard to find a way to do this statically but couldn't manage (I'm 5'11"). Ended up doing an all points off dyno and locking off with one hand. Crazy! The mantle is just has hard as the roof.

I wouldn't hesitate to call this 5.11, even by NH trad grades. But the chain is right there, so don't hesitate to get on this and give it a go. It feels sporty. Oct 1, 2014