All Locations > New Hampshire > Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Precipice > 3. The Big Wall
She's Out of Reach
Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Chris Magness 4/12|
|Page Views:||1,049 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||chris magness on Jun 23, 2012|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionAn excellent climb with great variety.
Look for a little knoll with a tree just past The Arete (The Arete is one pitch up) and two bolts leading to a 3' roof with a third bolt just above it.
Use a flake to gain the first bolt at 15' and a stance. One more sequence gains the second bolt. Make a hard 5.10 face move past the second bolt to a slopey undercling (typically wet) at the third bolt. Step right to a good hold and the crux.
A big move (crux) gains a horizontal break (has been done dynamically and statically). Step up and right to a short, vertical crack. Follow this to an easy but committing roof. A few more face moves lead to a pinch with a thread anchor.
Stop here or..
She's Way Out of Reach.... 5.10 A0 or 5.12+, FFA Jon Baldasarre 5/14
Continue up the steep face passing one more bolt (currently A0) and a horizontal. Step right to a flake and stand up to a two bolt anchor. The upper face is 5.10 if you pull on the bolt and is worth the effort -- or -- huck balls!!! Nice work Baldy! Save a .4 for the horizontal. Lower or rap off with a 60, anything shorter and you're hosed.
NOTE: To help reduce drag, clip the third bolt with an extendable draw but leave it short until you're at the stance after the big move. You can reach down and extend it from here.