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> New Durham Area…
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> 3. The Big Wall
She's Out of Reach
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
Routes in 3. The Big Wall
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Adventure Punks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Arete, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chenoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Don't Hassle Me I'm Local T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Graceful Tiers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Happy Ending T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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It's a Good Day to Die T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Locals Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nevermind The Bollocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 |
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P.I. Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Porno Poison Ivy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 R |
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Rampage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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She's Out of Reach T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Lichen Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Chris Magness 4/12 |
| Page Views: | 2,077 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | chris magness on Jun 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
An excellent climb with great variety.
Look for a little knoll with a tree just past The Arete (The Arete is one pitch up) and two bolts leading to a 3' roof with a third bolt just above it.
Use a flake to gain the first bolt at 15' and a stance. One more sequence gains the second bolt. Make a hard 5.10 face move past the second bolt to a slopey undercling (typically wet) at the third bolt. Step right to a good hold and the crux.
A big move (crux) gains a horizontal break (has been done dynamically and statically). Step up and right to a short, vertical crack. Follow this to an easy but committing roof. A few more face moves lead to a pinch with a thread anchor.
Stop here or..
She's Way Out of Reach.... 5.10 A0 or 5.12+, FFA Jon Baldasarre 5/14
Continue up the steep face passing one more bolt (currently A0) and a horizontal. Step right to a flake and stand up to a two bolt anchor. The upper face is 5.10 if you pull on the bolt and is worth the effort -- or -- huck balls!!! Nice work Baldy! Save a .4 for the horizontal. Lower or rap off with a 60, anything shorter and you're hosed.
NOTE: To help reduce drag, clip the third bolt with an extendable draw but leave it short until you're at the stance after the big move. You can reach down and extend it from here.
Look for a little knoll with a tree just past The Arete (The Arete is one pitch up) and two bolts leading to a 3' roof with a third bolt just above it.
Use a flake to gain the first bolt at 15' and a stance. One more sequence gains the second bolt. Make a hard 5.10 face move past the second bolt to a slopey undercling (typically wet) at the third bolt. Step right to a good hold and the crux.
A big move (crux) gains a horizontal break (has been done dynamically and statically). Step up and right to a short, vertical crack. Follow this to an easy but committing roof. A few more face moves lead to a pinch with a thread anchor.
Stop here or..
She's Way Out of Reach.... 5.10 A0 or 5.12+, FFA Jon Baldasarre 5/14
Continue up the steep face passing one more bolt (currently A0) and a horizontal. Step right to a flake and stand up to a two bolt anchor. The upper face is 5.10 if you pull on the bolt and is worth the effort -- or -- huck balls!!! Nice work Baldy! Save a .4 for the horizontal. Lower or rap off with a 60, anything shorter and you're hosed.
NOTE: To help reduce drag, clip the third bolt with an extendable draw but leave it short until you're at the stance after the big move. You can reach down and extend it from here.
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