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Routes in 3. The Big Wall

Adventure Punks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chenoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Graceful Tiers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Happy Ending T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Good Day to Die T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locals Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermind The Bollocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
P.I. Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porno Poison Ivy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 R
Rampage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Out of Reach T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Lichen Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chris Magness 4/12
Page Views: 1,049 total · 15/month
Shared By: chris magness on Jun 23, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

An excellent climb with great variety.

Look for a little knoll with a tree just past The Arete (The Arete is one pitch up) and two bolts leading to a 3' roof with a third bolt just above it.

Use a flake to gain the first bolt at 15' and a stance. One more sequence gains the second bolt. Make a hard 5.10 face move past the second bolt to a slopey undercling (typically wet) at the third bolt. Step right to a good hold and the crux.

A big move (crux) gains a horizontal break (has been done dynamically and statically). Step up and right to a short, vertical crack. Follow this to an easy but committing roof. A few more face moves lead to a pinch with a thread anchor.

Stop here or..

She's Way Out of Reach.... 5.10 A0 or 5.12+, FFA Jon Baldasarre 5/14

Continue up the steep face passing one more bolt (currently A0) and a horizontal. Step right to a flake and stand up to a two bolt anchor. The upper face is 5.10 if you pull on the bolt and is worth the effort -- or -- huck balls!!! Nice work Baldy! Save a .4 for the horizontal. Lower or rap off with a 60, anything shorter and you're hosed.

NOTE: To help reduce drag, clip the third bolt with an extendable draw but leave it short until you're at the stance after the big move. You can reach down and extend it from here.

Location

At the far left end of the Right Wall, below The ArĂȘte and just right of the Good Day to Die scary looking roof flake. Left of Happy Ending and Graceful Tiers which climb the same roof system.. Really between the central wall and the right wall.

Protection

4 B's, camalots to a #3 including small stuff. Bring extendable draws.

Photos

Sweet dude!! Great send, that's a freakin' huge dyno! May 9, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
GO BALDY!!!! May 8, 2014
Jason Denver
  5.11b
Jason Denver  
  5.11b
I belayed Jonathan Baldassare up the extension finish last night, 5/6/14 for the probable ffa. It was amazing to see him stick the dyno move. May 7, 2014

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