Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Magness, John Garlough 9/12
Page Views: 67 total · 1/month
Shared By: chris magness on Sep 25, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb easily past a right leaning flake, a series of ledges, horizontals and mantels, passing 2 bolts to a shallow roof. Clip a third bolt, pull the first shallow roof (crux)to a second shallow roof. Pro at a horizontal (.3/ .4) and mantle around the roof to a slab and a bolt. Step up and left to a bolt shared with Happy Ending, finishing at a two bolt anchor also shared with Happy Ending.

Crux seems like it will be height dependent. Taller climbers will find the grade soft. Shorter climbers will find the grade stout.

Location

10 feet right of Happy Ending.

Protection

5 bolts and rack to a #3 camalot. If you're comfortable running out easy terrain (5.7) only a .4 and .3 are necessary (horizontal after the crux). Placing a .75 it below the crux bolt will make the clip feel a bit more secure.

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chris magness
  5.10+
chris magness  
  5.10+
Same deal as Happy Ending. Probably 3 stars when clean. A shared bolt will be added to protect the moves to the anchor.

The crux moves are extremely thought provoking. Sep 25, 2012
chris magness
  5.10+
chris magness  
  5.10+
Bolt added, gave it a quick scrub. Nov 7, 2012