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Routes in 3. The Big Wall

Adventure Punks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chenoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Graceful Tiers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Happy Ending T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Good Day to Die T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locals Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermind The Bollocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
P.I. Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porno Poison Ivy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 R
Rampage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Out of Reach T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Lichen Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Magness, John Garlough 9/12
Page Views: 38 total, 1/month
Shared By: chris magness on Sep 25, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb easily past a right leaning flake, a series of ledges, horizontals and mantels, passing 2 bolts to a shallow roof. Clip a third bolt, pull the first shallow roof (crux)to a second shallow roof. Pro at a horizontal (.3/ .4) and mantle around the roof to a slab and a bolt. Step up and left to a bolt shared with Happy Ending, finishing at a two bolt anchor also shared anchor with Happy Ending.

Crux seems like it will be height dependent. Taller climbers will find the grade soft. Shorter climbers will find the grade stout.

Location

10 feet right of Happy Ending.

Protection

5 bolts and rack to a #3 camalot. If you're comfortable running out easy terrain (5.7) only a .4 and .3 are necessary (horizontal after the crux). Placing a .75 it below the crux bolt will make the clip feel a bit more secure.

Photos

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Bolt added, gave it a quick scrub. Nov 7, 2012
Same deal as Happy Ending. Probably 3 stars when clean. A shared bolt will be added to protect the moves to the anchor.

The crux moves are extremely thought provoking. Sep 25, 2012