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Routes in 3. The Big Wall

Adventure Punks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arete, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chenoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Graceful Tiers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Happy Ending T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Good Day to Die T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locals Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermind The Bollocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
P.I. Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porno Poison Ivy 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 R
Rampage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Out of Reach T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Lichen Dreams T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jason Denver, Syd Howard, Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 623 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jason Denver on Jun 5, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Pitch 1, 5.7R 50'. Climb up the face past loose flakes up to the right side of the roof. Continue up the right facing inside corner to its top. Walk 10' left and set up belay on comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2, 5.10a, 5.8 pg-13, 80'. Climb up short slabs to a headwall. Step left and continue up and up to the first bolt in a blankish slab. Pull through crux (.10a) and continue over two more short headwalls until reaching a third one with a thin seam continuing up. Climb this and set up a gear belay. (Pitches 2&3 may be combined)
Pitch 3, 5.11b, 40'. Put in gear under the roof, reach up and clip the bolt, then go for it. A couple of insecure moves on an overhanging wall lead to a bucket hold and then the top out.

Location

The route starts under the right side of the huge roof 20ft off the ground in the center of the cliff, just left of Layback Route. Walk off or rap down either Locals Only or Layback Route in 2 pitches.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" should be sufficient. Both belays are on gear.
chinos
  5.11c
chinos  
  5.11c
A great route! It was a pleasure to follow jay up this one! The crux head wall at the top is excellent with a killer view... Jun 13, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
The great Steve garvey,, was it '97 ? i thought even before that. Badass with a smile.. Jun 11, 2013
Jason Denver  
 
Thanks Edge. A great route in my opinion. Turned out easier and less scary than I was expecting. The name is a tribute to the man who lit the fire inside of me. Steve was my best friends uncle who took us up cathedral ledge for my first time when I was 11 and then up Whitehorse ledge the next summer. Steve passed away in August 1999 when his rope got cut in a lead fall in his then home state of alaska. The experiences i had were extraordinary and he made an indelible impression on me. His kindness, enthusiasm, and badassness was appreciated by those who knew him. After his family's memorial service for him in wolfeboro, his nephew and I sat at the top of this climb reflecting on him for a bit. This is a pretty stellar line, this one's for the Garv. Jun 7, 2013
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
Nice job, Jay! That line looked stellar; wish I could have fallen off it before I left. Jun 7, 2013