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Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall

An Aztec Nightmare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Begginer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comfortably Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earth and Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gloaming, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanta Yo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Islands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Heroes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Man Eater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Midnight Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Onslaught T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orthanc T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pirates of Longstack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Raven Song T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rawhide T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacred Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spirit Guide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Still Gettin' Booty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stroke, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strychnine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suicide Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sweat Lodge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tardis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terror Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toltec Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Underground T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wayback Machine, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Loran Smith, Ri Fahnestock, & Mike Veasey. April 5, 2013 (Direct Finish) Loran Smith, Joshua Corbett, Steve Arsenault, & Sarah Arsenault
Page Views: 1,615 total, 28/month
Shared By: EDGE on Apr 5, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route takes a direct line from the start of Midnight Special straight to the top of the cliff. Similar climbing to Suicide Wall with interesting moves and decent gear, but at an easier grade.

Start as for Midnight Special, heading up to the hollow flakes and block (good pro in suspect rock, first crux), then straight up to a lone ponderosa pine on a 12" deep ledge. Continue up the clean rock directly above the tree following the line of least resistance, passing a tricky move at a long reach to a short flake (second crux).

Fun climbing leads to the top of the steeper rock at a pine tree growing downwards along the face (possible finish here by traversing right 15-20' to reach the double bolts atop Suicide Wall). For the Direct Finish, step over the pine to a short dike and easy slabs (5.3R) heading for the final overlaps. Pull through just left of a clump of birch trees at a V shaped notch (5.8ish?) or step left then up to the anchor tree atop the route (5.5).

Location

Start as for Midnight Special, directly above the log hangout area just left of the prominent blocky corner of Orthanc.
Rap off the Suicide Wall anchors with one 60 meter rope, or from atop the Direct Finish rap off of a 8" diameter pine tree with two 60M ropes.

Protection

Standard rack to 2 1/2".
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Definitely PG in the grade, and may feel a bit tougher for shorter climbers. Fun route that is well worth getting on though.

There is no anchor setup on the tree on top of the route. Unless you plan to leave your own tat, prepare to walk off. There is a pretty easy walkoff trail back in the woods just a bit that goes to climber's left. It is orange-blazed sparsely, but should be fairly obvious (NOT the major ATV trail. Just a little footpath) Jul 4, 2017
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
 
Another great route at Longstack. Be aware of rope drag if you plan on doing this in one long pitch. Easily split into two shorter pitches with a belay at the obvious tree/ledge. Nov 24, 2014
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Now thoroughly scrubbed and with the addition of the Direct Finish, this route is fully deserving of three stars and should become a popular line for the confident 5.7 leader. The pro is good at each of the two short cruxes, but will be below your feet. Apr 27, 2013