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Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall

An Aztec Nightmare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Begginer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comfortably Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earth and Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gloaming, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanta Yo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Islands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Heroes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Man Eater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Midnight Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Onslaught T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orthanc T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pirates of Longstack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Raven Song T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rawhide T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacred Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spirit Guide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Still Gettin' Booty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stroke, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strychnine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suicide Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sweat Lodge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tardis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terror Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toltec Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Underground T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wayback Machine, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Joshua Corbett, Tom Zimmerman
Page Views: 300 total, 5/month
Shared By: chinos on Mar 16, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Start below the large chimney on Terror Crack. Climb the slab to a high black bolt. Gain a small tree ledge (bolt) and fire the crux slab to a flake. Follow the flake to the arete left of the chimney. Climb the juggy arete placing gear to a bolt anchor on top.

Location

Indigenous wall. Between Lost Heroes and Velvet Underground

Protection

Standard rack, 2 bolts, bolt anchor
Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
 
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
 
Yeah, I guess it's easier if you're tall, but to me it felt harder than the neighboring Velvet Underground. Had to keep calm to stay on when my foot skidded off near the first bolt. That was after bouncing off the ledge. Safe and sweet! Jun 7, 2016
ChrisN
Morro Bay, CA
 
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
 
Along with the Arete, one of my favorite climbs at Longstack. The two slab crux sections are completely safe with bolts at shoulder height. Easy to french free if you can't make the move. The upper juggy arete is super fun, protects well, and maybe goes at 5.7+ish? Great route. Aug 2, 2015
Rob Albert  
 
This was the best route I did at Longstack (so far). Easier if taller. Aug 5, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
Ahhh the elusive 9+.....Snadbagger! Mar 19, 2013
chinos
 
chinos  
 
i gave it another quick cleaning and climbed it again. It felt easier with it clean 9+/10a. Thanks Josh for cleaning this route up! a diamond in the lichen Mar 19, 2013
tommyguns
  5.10b
tommyguns  
  5.10b
Yea I wasn't expecting to climb based on the snow the night before. With just a little bit of moring sun the snow was gone. This cliff is the ulimate microclimate and seems to be climable way before the other local spots.
Thanks again to Josh and Jon, this route is awsome! Mar 18, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
Ya Loran by mid day 90% of the cliff was dry. What a fantastic route. Mar 18, 2013
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.10a
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.10a
Nice job on the send! I can't believe it was dry after the previous night's snow. Mar 17, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.10b
This route reminds me of a certain route up in Rumney Mar 17, 2013