Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall

Blackout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cleaning up the Scraps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Coyote Rain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evening Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Violence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gold Lion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mighty Quinn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rona's Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route Vultures, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Stack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Speck In My Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trifecta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weston's Syrup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winter Classic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 1,612 total, 24/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1: Start up a series of cleaned ledges 15’ right of Mighty Quinn to a flake with gear. Climb past four bolts making interesting moves with good rests. Finish up through some blueberries to a tree anchor. 65’ 5.10a
P2: Continue straight up from the tree anchor on slabs and short headwalls placing gear when possible. A bolt anchor awaits on top. 70’ 5.8 PG

Location

Look for four bolts up the wall

Protection

Standard rack, bolts
chinos
 
chinos  
 
most of the routes at longstack can go on all gear! i placed the bolts because the rock is grainy inside those cracks. i have ripped gear and seen others blow pieces falling on the harder climbs there and bolts are later added... the flake by the last bolt is very hollow and a fall onto gear in it could result in bad things.
I 100% agree that this could be a trad line tho, let me know how it goes!

The bolts were placed in feb, hence the name, and the cracks were filled with ice! Jul 29, 2014
Phinn
Massachusetts
Phinn   Massachusetts
I second the opinion that this would def go all trad...doin it that way next time... Jul 25, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Only did pitch 1 - Really fun moves! The cruxes are protected extremely well by bolts, and the easier runouts can be protected very well with gear. Honestly, it seemed like it would be a G trad climb without the bolts, and next time I plan to do it that way. Apr 20, 2014
xcrag-corex  
 
Definitely a fun route!!!! A classic even in the spring..... :) Apr 1, 2013
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.10a
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.10a
Amazing route! First pitch is entirely safe with just the four bolts and a small cam/medium stopper at the start, and I linked it with the second pitch, which felt like maybe 5.7 with just two slung trees. Oct 27, 2012