New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state motto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said? Overview of the regions Map modified from original in visitnh.gov/information/abo…
Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of *Pawtuckaway
in the South to the clean fractured granite of *Cannon Cliff
in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at *Rumney
are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral
and *Whitehorse Ledges
are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West.
Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.
New Hampshire's Regions
The Monadnock Region
, Merrimack Valley
, and the Seacoast
have been grouped into a single subarea: Southern NH and Seacoast
is a premiere bouldering destination in southern NH and is listed on the main page
The Lakes Region
has undergone some major development in the New Durham Area, specifically at Longstack Precipice
and Devil's Den
by the Chinos Mountain Club. *Rumney
is located within the Lakes Region map but is such a popular destination we've kept it on the main page.
The White Mountains
region holds the majority of New Hampshire's climbing with a true mix of sport, traditional, and outback alpine experiences. We've broken this region into subareas (prefixed with WM) based on pockets of climbing areas, frequently named after the notch or town they are near. A rough overview map of the White Mountain region is here
The most popular areas (*Cannon Cliff
, *Cathedral Ledge
, and *Whitehorse Ledge
) are currently listed on the main page.
The Great North Woods
region may be better documented by areas in the * NH Ice and Mixed
section. This region has yet to be documented as well as the White Mountains but there is certainly plenty to explore here.
Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S.
Manchester hosts a major regional airport and would be the airport of choice for areas in the western part of the state (Rumney, Cannon etc. about 1 1/4 hr drive).
Portland, Maine has a good airport, and is only about 1 1/4 - 1/2 hr drive to areas like Cathedral and Whitehorse in the eastern part of the state. [Take Maine Rt 22W to Rt 114N to Rt 25W to Rt 113N to Rt 302W in Fryeburg ME, then 302W into North Conway; do NOT take Rt 302 all the way, esp. in summer)
The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.
The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.
For those needing to study the Forest Management Plan
2005, last revised 2009, there is the link. The most climber relevant sections are (section-page) climbing: 1-14, 1-15, 2-22, 2-23, 3-15, 3-77>78 wilderness:1-22, 3-9>18, 3-47
Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.
Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the crux bulge.
Chistopher Denver, getting ready to crank a new route. photo was taken in 2005.
Remember your first time in the mountains? Franconia Ridge, NH.
Bondcliff (4,698 ft.) - Pemigewasset Wilderness
Bouldering in NH.
Sugar High (V7), Zealand Valley
The Presidentials from South Twin Mountain
Cannon Mtn/Cliff and Mt. Lincoln
Just a few photos of NH climbing I put into a collage
Hikers on top of Middle Sugarloaf