|GPS:||44.247, -71.501 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Aug 24, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
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Description[Formally titled "Zealand Notch/Road"]
As Bradley White explains in his Zealand Notch posting: "Zealand Notch used to be called New Zealand Notch because of it's similarity to the great forest of New Zealand.
From 1884 to 1905 a logging baron named J.E. Henry put an end to the existence of this forest."...fortunately, in the past 110 years the forest has returned and is now under more sensible management as part of the White Mtn National Forest.
Mt Oscar provides trad climbing with bolt protection when needed on fairly clean rock. Shady base and an easy approach make for a nice summer day.
Sugarloaf, and especially Middle Sugarloaf also provides some high-quality routes. Those that date to the mid-1980's and before are described in Ed Webster's 2nd Edition (out of print, but try Amazon) "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of NH". Many new lines have been put in...mostly trad with the occasional bolt. For now, let's just leave it as an adventure place not too far from the road. There are also shorter climbs on North Sugarloaf. (take a Right at the "T")
Oscar and Sugarloaf are covered in the new guidebook "The Notches".
Whitewall Mountain is a truly near-alpine "adventure" cliff. Located on the East side of Zealand Notch itself. It is in an Eastern Wilderness designated area so no bolts, in fact no permanent anchors or even protection. While I haven't checked, it would surprise me significantly if there is cell phone coverage there, so act accordingly.
Getting ThereFrom the North Conway area take Rt 302 through Crawford Notch, pass the Bretton Woods ski area, and in about 4-5 miles take a left into the WMNF Zealand campground area on the Zealand Road. Go up about a mile to a gravel parking lot for Mt Oscar and Syugarloaf. For Zealand Notch/Whitewall Mtn go to the parking at the end of the road.
From the North Woodsgtock/Lincoln/Cannon area, take Rt 93 and then bear right onto Rt3 towards the town of Twin Mountain. Take a right at the stop light onto Rt 302 South (East?) and in about 2-3 miles turn right onto the Zealand Road.
NOTE: The GPS LOCATION for this "Area" is about mid-way up the Zealand Notch Road, about 1/2 way fromn Rt 302 to the parking at the end of the road.
Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Zealand Valley
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season