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Elevation: 1,711 ft
GPS: 44.24724, -71.50079
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 91,865 total · 881/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Zealand Road is normally closed for winter, usually starting around mid-November and running through about end of April - beginning of May. 

[Formally titled "Zealand Notch/Road"]

As Bradley White explains in his Zealand Notch posting: "Zealand Notch used to be called New Zealand Notch because of it's similarity to the great forest of New Zealand.

 From 1884 to 1905 a logging baron named J.E. Henry put an end to the existence of this forest.
"...fortunately, in the past 110 years the forest has returned and is now under more sensible management as part of the White Mtn National Forest.

OVERVIEW:

Mt Oscar provides trad climbing with bolt protection when needed on fairly clean rock. Shady base and an easy approach make for a nice summer day.

Sugarloaf, and especially Middle Sugarloaf also provides some high-quality routes. Those that date to the mid-1980's and before are described in Ed Webster's 2nd Edition (out of print, but try Amazon) "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of NH". Many new lines have been put in...mostly trad with the occasional bolt. Sykes’ “The Notches” covers Mt Oscar and Sugarloaf quite well, although routes have been put in since even that publication. Most of those new routes are covered here in Mountainproject.  There are also shorter climbs on North Sugarloaf. (take a Right at the "T")

Whitewall Mountain is a truly near-alpine "adventure" cliff. Located on the East side of Zealand Notch itself. It is in an Eastern Wilderness designated area so no bolts, in fact no permanent anchors or even protection. While I haven't checked, it would surprise me significantly if there is cell phone coverage there, so act accordingly.

Getting There Suggest change

From the North Conway area take Rt 302 through Crawford Notch, pass the Bretton Woods ski area, and in about 4-5 miles take a left into the WMNF Zealand campground area on the Zealand Road. Go up about a mile to a gravel parking lot for Mt Oscar and Sugarloaf. For Zealand Notch/Whitewall Mtn go to the parking at the end of the road.

From the North Woodsgtock/Lincoln/Cannon area, take Rt 93 and then bear right onto Rt3 towards the town of Twin Mountain. Take a right at the stop light onto Rt 302 South (East?) and in about 2-3 miles turn right onto the Zealand Road.

NOTE: The GPS LOCATION for this "Area" is about mid-way up the Zealand Notch Road, about 1/2 way from Rt 302 to the parking at the end of the road.

WM: Zealand Road / Notch area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

54 Total Climbs

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Location: WM: Zealand Valley Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Zealand Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Oscar Mayer
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Sea of Green
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla"
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 26
Oscar the Grouch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P…
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Rock Candy
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
The Perez Highway
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Caveat Emptor
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Bipolar Brain Flush
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
Touch of Grey
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Moose Spirit
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Randys Super Fine Triplishes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Oscar's Last Stand
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Coffee Achievers
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
Three Bubbas Trilogy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oscar Mayer Mt Oscar
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sea of Green Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Ma…
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" Mt Oscar
 30
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Oscar the Grouch Mt Oscar
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky… Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Ma…
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Rock Candy Sugarloaf > Middle Sugarloaf / Ma…
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Perez Highway Mt Oscar
 16
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Caveat Emptor Mt Oscar
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bipolar Brain Flush Mt Oscar
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Touch of Grey Mt Oscar
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Moose Spirit Mt Oscar
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Randys Super Fine Triplishes Mt Oscar
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oscar's Last Stand Mt Oscar
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Coffee Achievers Mt Oscar
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Three Bubbas Trilogy Mt Oscar
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Zealand Valley »

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