WM: Zealand Valley Climbing

Zealand Road is normally closed for winter, usually starting around mid-November and running through about end of April - beginning of May. 

[Formally titled "Zealand Notch/Road"]

As Bradley White explains in his Zealand Notch posting: "Zealand Notch used to be called New Zealand Notch because of it's similarity to the great forest of New Zealand.

 From 1884 to 1905 a logging baron named J.E. Henry put an end to the existence of this forest."...fortunately, in the past 110 years the forest has returned and is now under more sensible management as part of the White Mtn National Forest.

OVERVIEW:

Mt Oscar provides trad climbing with bolt protection when needed on fairly clean rock. Shady base and an easy approach make for a nice summer day.

Sugarloaf, and especially Middle Sugarloaf also provides some high-quality routes. Those that date to the mid-1980's and before are described in Ed Webster's 2nd Edition (out of print, but try Amazon) "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of NH". Many new lines have been put in...mostly trad with the occasional bolt. Sykes’ “The Notches” covers Mt Oscar and Sugarloaf quite well, although routes have been put in since even that publication. Most of those new routes are covered here in Mountainproject.  There are also shorter climbs on North Sugarloaf. (take a Right at the "T")

Whitewall Mountain is a truly near-alpine "adventure" cliff. Located on the East side of Zealand Notch itself. It is in an Eastern Wilderness designated area so no bolts, in fact no permanent anchors or even protection. While I haven't checked, it would surprise me significantly if there is cell phone coverage there, so act accordingly.