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Routes in Mount Oscar

Ben Zen Send T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Brain Flush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob Loblaw aka ":Bob Bla Bla" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Brush T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bucking Bronco Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caveat Emptor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charismatic Mime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent aka Oscar Mayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescents - per Skyes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doh - Crescent Direct Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moose Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Oscar's Last Stand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perez Highway, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randys Super Fine Triplishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Syko Bubba : Caveat Emptor's Direct Finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Bubbas Trilogy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Touch of Grey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wasabi Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Lee, Jon Skyes 2007
Page Views: 501 total, 18/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Yup, as a friend once said of another climb: "Lot's of "plus" in that!"

The opening traverse moves are about 5.5+/-R with certain groundfall; stick-clipping the first bolt eliminates the "R".

START - Where the path rises, about 20 ft right of "Ocsar's Last Stand", and below the right hand of two HUGE solution pockets.

P1 - Climb to the right-hand pocket, move left to the left-hand pocket and clip the bolt. If necessary, dry your feet (pockets often have water) and then climb the smooth slab (crux, bolt #2) and on to the very nice crack above. 90 ft 5.7+

Best to find a directional above the crux to protect the follower(s) from a big swing on the crux.

P2 - "The Notches" lists a 2nd pitch of 70 ft.

Protection

Std Rack, #2 and 1 1/2 Camalot(s) for the larger crack.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Interesting...I've always felt the crack was pretty easy, and my crack climbing gets pretty "iffy" around 5.8+ / 5.9-, so it's not like I'm "from Yosemite" or something. Recollection is that sequence on the crack was important, but I thought it 5.6+ / 5.7- or so.

Now...passing the 2nd bolt, that's thin!

Just different strokes for different folks, I guess.

ps- Pretty sure the 2nd climb you did was "Highway", which once was called the "Perez Highway" ( for FA-er's) and many think that even at 5.8+ it may be rated too low. Jul 18, 2016
Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
My 2nd time at Mt. Oscar, and was strolling by this line, and thought it looked good, esthetically speaking. So I decided to give it a whirl, not knowing what it was.
I had warmed up on the 5.6 Raven Ridge...that was easy and fun.
2nd climb was a 40-50' 5.8 slab with a smooth/difficult off the ground start...Pezz? something in the name? That was fun, but challenging as it was pretty thin! Another climber there told me it might be closer to a 5.9!? I didn't disagree.

This one, liked the start, the two first bolts didn't bother me, as I felt reasonably secure on the available holds and feet.
I thought the upper crack section was pretty burly! I estimated what large cams I might want to use, and how to distribute them/and might want to save for farther up, and in the end it worked out very well. But I truly thought I was climbing a LEAST a 5.8. : ) Perhaps my crack climbing needs more work. I'd do it again, but my 2nd and I both laughed about the rating. She thought I was crazy for leading it without any prior knowledge or beta. Jul 18, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Tom,
AGREED! As the description says..."stick clip the 1st bolt eliminates the "R".

Not sure how far off the ground you are (probably 10-12-15 ft?), but remember the point of the G/PG/R/X is not the length of the fall but the probability of getting injured (or killed). We agree the fall "would be ugly" and I just wanted to let potential climbers know that.

A "failing" of Mt Project is that their ratings system doesn't allow for "dual" ratings, e.g. " 5.7+ / 5.5R". (Ed Webster sort of 'pioneered' this in his guidebooks, but it has fallen into dis-use.) I, therefore, usually include it in the text, unless the "R" part is 3 or 4 grades lower. 5.3R, or X, is unlikely to affect someone leading a 5.8 [Although with today's "gym" climbers coming out on the cliffs, one has to wonder.]

The closer to the climb's rating, the more likely I'll put in into the "header" information. But you'll see that I've taken it out of the "mainline" rating and modified the text a bit.

More importantly, did you guys make the FA? Sep 29, 2015
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
Yes, when Zac and I returned here, I had been wondering if a bolt had been added. From the pre-existing route description that sounds like it is not the case. The first bolt I would guess is no more than 10' off the ground. The ground does slope downhill here so a fall would be somewhat ugly, but I am quite confused as to the R-rating. I have added a route photo, with my guess of the first bolt's location and I will go back and edit/ update this if necessary. Sep 29, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
Definitely wouldnt give this an R rating. High first bolt that you may want to stick clip but dont view the whole climb as R Sep 27, 2015