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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster and Paul Cormier
Page Views: 2,155 total · 81/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Originally listed in MP as "The Green Mile" the name has been corrected Feb 2017 per info in "The Notches" previous verbal info that indicated "The Green Mile" was incorrect.

The person who showed me this climb said: “If this were at Cathedral they would start lining up for it at 5am

START: about 25-30 ft left of Saber, or 100-120 feet right of Bolt in the Sky, at a shallow, low-angle, 15ft-high, left-facing insider corner that starts a few feet off the ground. There's a 5-6" diameter pine tree about 6 ft up on the left.

Originally, P1 was long and P2 (with a gear anchor) was short. However, in late 2015 a new route (Rock Candy) was put in which crossed Green Mile, and Green Mile is now better climbed using the double bolt anchor put in on a great ledge of that climb.

P1 - Scramble up the” low-angle crack (often filled with pine needles) and climb the corner, clip the bolt and make a few steps left into “THE CRACK”. Climb the crack (DUH!) until you can move up right to a ledge with a double bolt anchor. 70-80 ft 5.6+ to 5.7-

P2 - Move right and up over, and into, a second crack. Climb the second crack (DUH!) [nice surprise!] When this second crack narrows and ends, step left onto the white face and climb it (5.4-5.5 PG-13 / R ) to a stance on a 6”-8inch” ledge with a crack to the left. [This is the original P1 belay spot, it takes a green (#1) and/or red (# 1.5) Camalot]
Climb directly up, pass by the 2-foot-diameter “hole” ( complete with its own garden) into a corner that starts to curve right. Protect, then step left over the corner (brushed footholds in the correct place, DUH!) onto the face above and the final low-angle crack. Double bolt anchor 20-25 ft left, or belay off gear. About 160-180 ft, 5.4 -5.5 PG-13/R

Protection

Usual Rack
zwms  
Hey - is it possible to run this to the top and hike off? If so, what's the best approach for that? It seems like the 2nd pitch, as described here, is a rope-stretcher.
Thanks! Oct 27, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
According to posts further down in this link neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.ph… it is an Ed Webster and Paul Cormier route, Sea of Green. Looks like a destination route. May 26, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
"Roger that!" ...the route description was updated after the dbl bolt anchor was put in at the end of P1, but before the dbl bolt anchor was put in at the end of "Rock Candy's" P2 ( and also before the top rap anchor was put in.)

While I haven't actually done it, I suspect that one can reach from Rock Candy's P1 anchor all the way to the top in one long pitch (since the descent is only two less-than-100ft-each-raps), so there's probably no real need to go to any anchor at all above the first. May 25, 2016
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
 
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
 
Did this today and it makes sense to move up to the bolted anchor on the 2nd pitch. Easy enough to step back right and pass the deep hole/garden and finish the original 3rd pitch... no need to stop and build a gear anchor IMO

Video of our quick trip today: youtube.com/watch?v=YC64aAO… May 24, 2016
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.7
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.7
I think the crux is passing the bolt to get to the crack. Nov 9, 2015