Type: Trad, 300 ft, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster and Paul Cormier
Page Views: 2,618 total · 69/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Originally listed in MP as "The Green Mile" the name has been corrected Feb 2017 per info in "The Notches", and previous verbal info that indicated "The Green Mile" was incorrect.

The person who showed me this climb said: “If this were at Cathedral they would start lining up for it at 5am

START: about 25-30 ft left of Saber, or 100-120 feet right of Bolt in the Sky, at a shallow, low-angle, 15ft-high, left-facing insider corner that starts a few feet off the ground. There's a 5-6" diameter pine tree about 6 ft up on the left.

Originally, P1 was long and P2 (with a gear anchor) was short. However, in late 2015 a new route (Rock Candy) was put in which crossed Green Mile, and Green Mile is now better climbed using the double bolt anchor put in on a great ledge of that climb.

P1 - Scramble up the” low-angle crack (often filled with pine needles) and climb the corner, clip the bolt and make a few steps left into “THE CRACK”. Climb the crack (DUH!) until you can move up right to a ledge with a double bolt anchor.  70-80 ft 5.6+ to 5.7-

P2 - Move right and up over, and into, a second crack. Climb the second crack (DUH!) [nice surprise!] When this second crack narrows and ends, step left onto the white face and climb it (5.4-5.5 PG-13 / R ) to a stance on a 6”-8inch” ledge with a crack to the left. [This is the original P1 belay spot, it takes a green (#1) and/or red (# 1.5) Camalot]
Climb directly up, pass by the 2-foot-diameter “hole” ( complete with its own garden) into a corner that starts to curve right. Protect, then step left over the corner (brushed footholds in the correct place, DUH!) onto the face above and the final low-angle crack. Double bolt anchor 20-25 ft left, or belay off gear. About 160-180 ft, 5.4 -5.5 PG-13/R

Protection

Usual Rack
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.7
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.7
I think the crux is passing the bolt to get to the crack. Nov 9, 2015
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
 
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
 
Did this today and it makes sense to move up to the bolted anchor on the 2nd pitch. Easy enough to step back right and pass the deep hole/garden and finish the original 3rd pitch... no need to stop and build a gear anchor IMO

Video of our quick trip today: youtube.com/watch?v=YC64aAO… May 24, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7
"Roger that!" ...the route description was updated after the dbl bolt anchor was put in at the end of P1, but before the dbl bolt anchor was put in at the end of "Rock Candy's" P2 ( and also before the top rap anchor was put in.)

While I haven't actually done it, I suspect that one can reach from Rock Candy's P1 anchor all the way to the top in one long pitch (since the descent is only two less-than-100ft-each-raps), so there's probably no real need to go to any anchor at all above the first. May 25, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
According to posts further down in this link neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.ph… it is an Ed Webster and Paul Cormier route, Sea of Green. Looks like a destination route. May 26, 2016
zwms  
Hey - is it possible to run this to the top and hike off? If so, what's the best approach for that? It seems like the 2nd pitch, as described here, is a rope-stretcher.
Thanks! Oct 27, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Awesome route in an amazing location. Interesting climbing all the way on very sticky granite. If this route is your destination, hike to the summit and when you first get to the top of Middle Sugarloaf and come out to the clearing with the view you'll want to head a bit to your left and towards the cliff that is directly in front of you (Facing up Zealand valley, towards Mt. Hale etc.) The rap anchors are down on the cliffside about 30' down from where the slab starts to angle downwards. It may not be easy to find your first time. I'd suggest putting on your climbing shoes and walking down the low-angle slab a bit and wandering around - you'll find them eventually. They are on a fairly nice ledge near some rock flakes that look like they could take a cam, and there is a decent-sized bush down near the anchors. There is a topo picture of the rap lines on the page for Middle Sugarloaf, take a look at that for some reference.

Anyways, you can do 3 raps with one rope (60M) or two raps with two ropes using 3 bolted stations with rap rings. You are rapping down Sea of Green (The obvious cracks, mostly gear-protected) and Rock Candy (the bolted slabs). A standard rack will do just fine, but anyone pushing their limits at all might be happy to have doubles in the .75-#2 range. A #4 cam wasn't necessary, but we used it early on both pitches, so it was handy. We climbed pitch 1 and belayed, then linked pitch 2 and pitch 3 with a 60m rope. I don't see why you wouldn't link those two pitches as long as you are extending your pieces. Be prepared for a good solid friction slab runout on the 2nd pitch above the crack which goes at around 5.5 and will be about 30' before a nice gear opportunity. If it's anywhere near your slab limit it will probably feel committing and R-rated.

We hiked to the summit of Middle Sugarloaf with our big backpacks and stashed them and our hiking shoes in the trees up top, and switched to small backpacks before rappelling down. Jul 7, 2018