Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), Grade II
FA: Ed Webster and Paul Cormier
Page Views: 4,150 total · 57/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Originally listed in MP as "The Green Mile" the name has been corrected Feb 2017 per info in "The Notches", and previous verbal info that indicated "The Green Mile" was incorrect.

The person who showed me this climb said: “If this were at Cathedral they would start lining up for it at 5am

START: 2021 Update - The 5-6” diameter pine tree has been blown down, so the best start now scrambles up its upended root system. Start about 30-35 ft left of Saber, or 100-120 feet right of Bolt in the Sky.

Originally, P1 was long and P2 (with a gear anchor) was short. However, in late 2015 a new route (Rock Candy) was put in which crossed Green Mile, and Green Mile is now better climbed using the double bolt anchor put in on a great ledge of that climb.

P1 - Scramble up behind the upended root system to the” low-angle wide crack and climb the corner, clip the bolt and make a few steps left into “THE CRACK”. Climb the crack (DUH!) until you can move up right to a ledge with a double bolt anchor.  70-80 ft   5.6+ to 5.7-

P2 - Move right and up over, and into, a second crack. Climb the second crack (DUH!) [nice surprise!] When this second crack narrows and ends, step left onto the white face and climb it (5.4-5.5 PG-13 / R ) to a stance on a 6”-8inch” ledge with a crack to the left. [This is the original P1 belay spot, it takes a green (#1) and/or red (# 1.5) Camalot]

Climb directly up, pass by the 2-foot-diameter “hole” ( complete with its own garden) into a corner that starts to curve right. Protect, then step left over the corner (brushed footholds in the correct place, DUH!) onto the face above and the final low-angle crack. Double bolt anchor 20-25 ft left, or belay off gear. About 160-180 ft, 5.4 -5.5 PG-13/R

Protection

Usual Rack

Photos