Avg: 3 from 6 votes
Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
|"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, Grade II|
|FA:||Ben Miller and John Halupowski: P1 October 7 P2 November 6, 2015|
|Page Views:||850 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||b miller on Nov 8, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionTwo pitches of nice face climbing.
P1: Climb up the Sea of Green initial corner and clip the bolt. Move up and right, following a crescent shaped line. Clip five more bolts along the way. Belay at two bolts with rap rings on the ledge atop the first Sea of Green crack. 90 feet.
P2: Climb straight up the face above you. (The upper SOG crack looms to the right). Surmount a bulge after clipping the fifth and last bolt. Follow easier ground, trending left to a flake with a two bolt belay, also with rap rings. 90 feet.
"P3" : Finish up moderate slab [80ft], protecting at the left end of the six inch overlap, and up to two bolts with rappel rings, (the summit anchor/belay for the Center Rap Line / Sea of Green). (Or rappel to the ground.)
LocationFind the base of Sea of Green. (Described elsewhere on this site). It starts where the second wave of slab touches the ground appx 75 feet from the base of the north descent trail. There is a conifer tree with trimmed branches, look for the first bolt on the overlap appx 25 feet up.
ProtectionP1: 6 3/8" bolts
P2: 5 3/8" bolts, then small and medium cracks take pro on upper 40 feet.
Descent: You can now rappel this line from the summit to the ground utilizing fixed rappel rings. Start with the two rappel ring bolts that comprise the top belay for Sea of Green. (To reach these bolts from the top you are exposed to the cliff edge while down climbing easy slab for approximately 30 feet. As an alternative, you can rappel from the trees, approximately 40 feet to reach the bolts.) Two 60 meter ropes--two rappels. One sixty meter rope--three rappels.