Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft, Grade II
FA: Ben Miller and John Halupowski: P1 October 7 P2 November 6, 2015
Page Views: 850 total, 33/month
Shared By: b miller on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Two pitches of nice face climbing.

P1: Climb up the Sea of Green initial corner and clip the bolt. Move up and right, following a crescent shaped line. Clip five more bolts along the way. Belay at two bolts with rap rings on the ledge atop the first Sea of Green crack. 90 feet.

P2: Climb straight up the face above you. (The upper SOG crack looms to the right). Surmount a bulge after clipping the fifth and last bolt. Follow easier ground, trending left to a flake with a two bolt belay, also with rap rings. 90 feet.

"P3" : Finish up moderate slab [80ft], protecting at the left end of the six inch overlap, and up to two bolts with rappel rings, (the summit anchor/belay for the Center Rap Line / Sea of Green). (Or rappel to the ground.)

Location

Find the base of Sea of Green. (Described elsewhere on this site). It starts where the second wave of slab touches the ground appx 75 feet from the base of the north descent trail. There is a conifer tree with trimmed branches, look for the first bolt on the overlap appx 25 feet up.

Protection

P1: 6 3/8" bolts
P2: 5 3/8" bolts, then small and medium cracks take pro on upper 40 feet.

Descent: You can now rappel this line from the summit to the ground utilizing fixed rappel rings. Start with the two rappel ring bolts that comprise the top belay for Sea of Green. (To reach these bolts from the top you are exposed to the cliff edge while down climbing easy slab for approximately 30 feet. As an alternative, you can rappel from the trees, approximately 40 feet to reach the bolts.) Two 60 meter ropes--two rappels. One sixty meter rope--three rappels.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9- PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9- PG13
Climbed P2 again today (9/26/16) as finish for "Steve's Twilight" and think you mean crux is "between the 3rd and 4th bolts [not "2nd & 3rd"] [really quite thin].
Right of B#5 is definitely height-dependent: reaching the finger incuts. (just ask Sheila, 5 ft 4-inches) Sep 26, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9- PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9- PG13
Very Nice! Great "rough" rock.

The grade of the move over the top bolt may be height-dependent. There's easier climbing (5.7 +/-?) past this bolt about 3 ft to its left. Nov 12, 2015
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.9
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.9
Smooooth leads Ben! Nov 8, 2015